Last week I showed you how to prepare a commercial sewing pattern for fitting using a fairly straight forward shift style dress. Since the dress I used as an example was very similar to a basic block pattern, it was a pretty straight forward exercise, once you understand how to manage the details. If you missed part 1 of this series be sure to watch it.
This week we’re going to talk about how to prepare the pattern for a flared jacket with a raglan sleeve which you’ll soon see is not nearly as straight forward. Watch the video now to see how to prepare the sewing pattern and find the balance lines on a not-so-basic style.
I hope this example has helped you understand how you can prepare a stylized commercial pattern for fitting and give you the ability to start using the vertical and horizontal balance lines to assess fit. If you’ve tried or used this method to assess fit, share you comments on this page.
If you want to learn more about balance...
Fitting is difficult. No number of fitting books, classes and guides you’ve purchased with the words Fast, Quick or Easy in the title, is going to change that fact. Fitting is a process that takes time to perfect and a skill that is acquired through study and experience.
I’ve studied fitting for a very long time. It wasn’t until I started using vertical and horizontal balance lines on my garments that I truly began to understand how to make sewing patterns fit me. These markings made it so much easier to understand the origin and nature of fitting issues and eliminated the confusion of trying to “read the wrinkles”. Once I started focusing on the balance of the garment on my body the wrinkles would magically disappear.
When you draft a pattern to your personal measurements, these vertical and horizontal balance lines are the foundation of the pattern, but what do you do if you are using a commercial pattern? Well this month I’m going to share...
Thank you to everyone who joined in on the Live Q&A Session on January 21, 2021! I am pleased to share the recording with you today.
We chatted about where I'll be focusing my energy this year and shared information about the upcoming Fitting Essentials enrolment dates, current online course offerings, In-House Patterns sewing patterns and the new courses I'll be developing this year.
As promised here are the links to those resources:
Fitting and Pattern Making Tutorials
On Demand Online Courses:
The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice
Designed to Fit: The Bodice Block
Sewing Patterns: https://inhousepatterns.com/
Fitting Essentials Size Chart (sizes 2-14 and 12-24) All new sewing patterns will be available in these sizing categories.
Standard Size Chart (Sizes 0-16) Legacy sewing patterns in original pattern sizing.
Private Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/inhousepatternsstudio
The Q&A portion of the live was...
2020 feels like a guest who has overstayed their welcome!
I for one can't wait until December 31st, when I can usher this crazy year to the door. While it has been challenging to navigate this year, there is always some good that comes with the bad and I am choosing to concentrate on that, so I am keeping hope alive for a much better 2021.
Since 2020 is sticking around for a few more weeks and our Holiday time is likely going to look different than previous years, I thought I would highlight some of the projects you might like to work on to make these last few weeks go as quickly as possible.
The Chelsea top has always been one of my favourites and if you want something a little dressier than a t-shirt, make it in lace like I did. The Chelsea pattern is a PDF sewing pattern available in sizes 0-16.
With all patterns on sale, this is a great opportunity to try the Lila top.
Lila is a Fitting Essentials pattern (available...
If you’re on my email list you already know that this week I’ll be showing you how to find the balance lines on the In-House Patterns Ellen pants. If you’d like to follow along with your own version of the Ellen pant pattern you can find the pattern HERE. If you’re working with another pant pattern you’ll get some insight on how to find the balance lines on that pattern too.
In the video I share details on finding the balance lines on the size 8 Ellen sewing pattern by In-House Patterns. If you're using another size use the information in the chart below to guide you in placing the Hip, High HIp and Calf balance lines on the size you're working with. Follow the video lesson for the method and the process of finding all the other balance lines.
Knee to Hip
If you caught last weeks video tutorial you’ll know we began a discussion about back contour shaping on a pattern with a back yoke. In that video I shared a method of removing the yoke seam so that you could better understand how to make a standard rounded back adjustment. This week I wanted to talk about the best position for a yoke seam line and how to customize it for your body.
The back yoke is a great styling choice when you have a rounded back because it allows you to shape the back by creating an invisible dart in the yoke seam. This invisible dart, hidden in the seam, has the ability to give you a more refined fit but like a dart the styling will work best if the yoke seam is addressing the most prominent area of the back. If the yoke seam is too high or too low, you may find that you are not achieving the fit you hoped for.
The most prominent area of the back spinal curve usually occur between 2 1/2” to 5” below the base of neck. (That’s about 6 to...
You might be quite familiar with making adjustments to a pattern to accommodate a more rounded back than what the pattern has been designed for. On a basic pattern with a shoulder dart, the method is well documented and I’ve even created a video tutorial on this as well, but what do you do when the style has a back yoke?
Join me today to learn how to eliminate a back yoke seam to better understand how to alter the pattern for more prominent back contour shaping.
Watch the video now to see how back contour shaping can be incorporated into the back yoke seam as an invisible dart and how to remove the yoke seam and rotate the invisible dart to the shoulder seam so you can easily make a standard rounded back adjustment.
Not sure how to make a standard rounded back adjustment? This video is for you:
The Lila sewing pattern I shared with you in this video is a Fitting Essentials sewing pattern. When you purchase this pattern you get access...
I couldn't resist sharing this lovely article written by Joyce Jones for her local American Sewing Guild chapter newsletter. I was incredibly humbled by the kind words she shared about her experience with my courses but even above that I love the sentiment of her words in regard to the incredible impact that an instructor can have on one's ability to learn and excel in any subject.
Have a read, I hope you enjoy it as much as I did...
written by Joyce Jones for the
Northern Virginia Chapter of the American Sewing Guild
If you have a minute for quiet reflection, conjure an image of your very best teacher. Not the one who made you laugh, liked you best, or never assigned homework. Dig a little deeper and visualize the teacher who made things click. You know the one I mean. The one who made you feel capable, curious to know more. If you’ve pulled up a face and a name, and perhaps even a smile, you’ve experienced a Magical...
For me, September always marks a new start. While we are all still clearly trying to find solid ground during this challenging year, a new season always feels like something good might be just around the corner. If you feel that way too, I hope what I share today will be welcome news.
If you've followed any of my fitting tutorials, downloaded The Perfect Fit Guide or taken any of my online classes, you already know how helpful the horizontal and vertical balance lines can be in assessing fit. While I deeply believe this method works, I know it has been difficult for you to put this into action because these markings are not provided on most commercial sewing patterns, so today I am announcing a new In-House Patterns sewing pattern that includes some extra special features.
This is Lila. This pattern is available in a new size range and packaged in a new digital mini-class format. When you purchase this pattern you get access to an In-House Patterns Studio account where you'll...
Early this year I shared a 6 part Pattern Fundamentals video series that walked you through the process of creating a pattern design using your personal basic block pattern.
Did you participate in the Ava design project?
If you did, you may have come upon a bit of a stumbling block that I'd like to help you step over, so this week I'm adding a Part 7 and answering a question that's come up quite a bit lately.
"What do I do when the bust dart volume isn't enough to create three neckline darts?"
If you stumbled at this stage, I have the answer for you today. Watch the video to learn exactly what to do.
If you missed the series and want to catch up use the links below to follow along!
A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part I
A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 2
A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 3
A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 4
A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 5