In Fitting Fashion

Solving Back Contour Issues: How to Move a Back Yoke Seam

 

If you caught last weeks video tutorial you’ll know we began a discussion about back contour shaping on a pattern with a back yoke. In that video I shared a method of removing the yoke seam so that you could better understand how to make a standard rounded back adjustment. This week I wanted to talk about the best position for a yoke seam line and how to customize it for your body.

The back yoke is a great styling choice when you have a rounded back because it allows you to shape the back by creating an invisible dart in the yoke seam. This invisible dart, hidden in the seam, has the ability to give you a more refined fit but like a dart the styling will work best if the yoke seam is addressing the most prominent area of the back. If the yoke seam is too high or too low, you may find that you are not achieving the fit you hoped for.

The most prominent area of the back spinal curve usually occur between 2 1/2” to 5” below the base of neck. (That’s about 6 to...

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Solving Back Contour Issues: How to Eliminate a Back Yoke Seam

 

You might be quite familiar with making adjustments to a pattern to accommodate a more rounded back than what the pattern has been designed for. On a basic pattern with a shoulder dart, the method is well documented and I’ve even created a video tutorial on this as well, but what do you do when the style has a back yoke?

Join me today to learn how to eliminate a back yoke seam to better understand how to alter the pattern for more prominent back contour shaping.

Watch the video now to see how back contour shaping can be incorporated into the back yoke seam as an invisible dart and how to remove the yoke seam and rotate the invisible dart to the shoulder seam so you can easily make a standard rounded back adjustment.

Not sure how to make a standard rounded back adjustment? This video is for you:

The Rounded Back Adjustment

The Lila sewing pattern I shared with you in this video is a Fitting Essentials sewing pattern. When you purchase this pattern you get access...

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Fitting Knits: How to Make a Back Contour Adjustment on a T-Shirt Pattern

 

Last week we talked about bust adjustments on a t-shirt pattern, this week I'd like to address how to handle back contour shaping. Age and posture can take a toll on the body and sometimes can result in more rounded shoulders and back. In order to achieve a good and comfortable fit in your garments you'll likely need to make a pattern adjustment to accommodate this body shape so today we'll cover the upper-back and mid-back contour shape adjustments.

Watch the video now to see how it's done.

If you'd like to learn about stretch fabric pattern making, I invite you to look into my online course The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice. You'll learn how to draft a basic T-shirt using your own body measurements. I'll leave a link for you on this page.

If you're not interested in drafting your own T-Shirt I have a pattern you can use. It's called the Jenny Tee and you can find it at inhousepatterns.com. For more information about how the Jenny pattern fits take a look at this video: Fitting...

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The Prominent Shoulder Blade Adjustment

 

Over the last couple of weeks, we've been talking about fitting the back.

Last week I demonstrated how to assess the muslin and adjust your pattern for a rounded back fitting issue.

This week I want to show you how to adjust for a prominent shoulder blade. I thought it important to cover this fit issue because it seems most people use the rounded back pattern adjustment to solve a prominent shoulder blade issue. While the rounded back adjustment will work to some extent, you may find it will cause another fitting issue.

Watch the video to find out why and what to do instead.

Resources mentioned in this video:

Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

How to True Darts and Manage Dart Volume

If you are looking for more back fitting tutorials check these out:

The Sway Back Adjustment Three Ways

The Broad and Narrow Back Adjustment

I hope you enjoyed this video! If you found it helpful, let me know in the comments or share it with a friend who might.

All My Best,
Alexandra

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The Rounded Back Adjustment

 

Last week that we talked about fitting the back and I demonstrated a little draping lesson to show you how important the back shoulder dart is to achieving a good fit.

This week, I want to continue the conversation about fitting the back by talking about what most people call the rounded back adjustment. I’m going to use my lovely assistant Marjie to demonstrate what how to recognize this fit issue in your sample and then how to adjust your pattern to correct it.

Next week I'll cover another common back fitting issue. I hope you'll tune in!

Resources mentioned in this video:

Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

How to True Darts and Manage Dart Volume

If you are looking for more back fitting tutorials check these out:

The Sway Back Adjustment Three Ways

The Broad and Narrow Back Adjustment

Enjoy!

All My Best,
Alexandra

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Fitting Fundamentals: Fitting the Back (Understanding Shape)

 

This week I wanted to concentrate specifically on the fitting of the back bodice. Fitting the back of the body is obviously challenging due to the fact that we simply can’t see what’s going on back there. When you twist to view the back or even move your arms, you automatically change the way the garment hangs. So what are you to do?

Well, I have a couple of suggestions in the video that may help as well as a draping lesson that will clearly show you what fitting elements are needed for a good fitting bodice without a gaping neckline or armhole.

I hope you enjoy!

Here are the links to the resources mentioned in the video:

The Perfect Fit Guide

The Fitting Fundamentals Video Series

How to Take Fitting Photos for Greater Fitting Success

Extra curricular viewing:

Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

Four Things to Get You to a Better Fit Faster

How Patterns Work

The Bust Circle Series: 

The Bust Circle Defined

Neckline Contour Darts

Armhole Contour Darts

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