Confidently Create Garments that Fit

How to Determine Degree of Shoulder Slope

 

Last week I showed you how to determine the shoulder slope on a sewing pattern. If you missed it, you can watch it HERE.

This week you'll learn how to translate that information into your degree of shoulder slope using a long forgotten tool that I am pretty sure you'll find in your junk drawer or a family member's school supply kit.

Once you've determined your degree of shoulder slope you'll have all the information you need to transfer the information to any sewing pattern.

All My Best,
Alexandra

 

 

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How to Determine the Shoulder Slope on a Pattern

 

This week I've got a really quick video that I hope you’ll find truly helpful.

It answers a question from Kelly who wanted to know how to measure her shoulder slope. A quick google search will give you several options. You can trace your shoulder line onto a piece of paper taped to the wall or use an iPhone app to determine the degree of slant. I personally haven’t found these to be very accurate because you usually need a helper to work with you, so I rely on the sample fit assessment to tell me what the shoulder slope should be.

Once you have a sample a garment that fits your shoulder angle, you can record that information for future use. So today I’m going to show you how to measure the shoulder slope on a pattern so that you can use the information for future sewing sewing projects.

Once you watch the video and understand how to measure the shoulder slope on a pattern you can convert this information to degrees if needed by using a protractor. To fuel...

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How to Adjust Shoulder Width on a Garment with Straps

 

This week I wanted to revive a video I did a while back on how to adjust the shoulder width on a garment with straps [featuring the In-House Patterns Sophie dress].

I often see and hear comments on how making shoulder adjustments is hard, but it's actually very easy and definitely nothing to be afraid of. I am sure that after you've watched, you won't be intimidated by it any longer.

I made the Sophie dress for myself a while back and thought I'd share a photo. I made view A for it's sophisticated "little black dress" appeal. This pattern is 25% off until July 31, 2019 so if you like what you see, it's a great time to get your copy of the pattern

If you're wondering what the "other" shoulder width adjustment is, you can see it here: How to Adjust Shoulder Width on a Garment with Sleeves.

Just a reminder, if you are making a shoulder width alteration on a style with separate lining patterns (like the Sophie dress), be sure to make the same...

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How to Adjust Shoulder Width on a Garment with Sleeves

 

Here's another revival of a past video that contains some valuable information about adjusting for shoulder width on a garment with sleeves.

The method I share in this video requires no change to the sleeve but be sure to watch the whole video because I have a short segment on how this alteration can change the garment's shoulder slope fit which may be problematic if you are making a very large shoulder width adjustment [1" (2.5 cm) or more]. 

Large shoulder width adjustments are best done using an alternate method which include an alteration to the sleeve (a future video perhaps).

The book I am referencing in the video is Fabulous Fit: Speed Fitting and Alterations by Elizabeth Liechty and Judith Rasband.

If you're interested in how to adjust the shoulder width on a garment with straps, you'll find a helpful video HERE.

Enjoy!

All My Best,
Alexandra

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How to Alter for a Forward Shoulder on a Raglan Sleeve

 

I’m wrapping up this month’s video series on raglan sleeves today so if you missed any of the previous tutorials, I suggest you watch them. I’m pretty sure you’re going to find some new to you information inside.

How to Create a Raglan Sleeve

How to Alter a Raglan Sleeve for a Square or Sloping Shoulder

How to Alter the Bicep on a Raglan Sleeve

Today I’m going to show you how to alter your raglan sleeve for a forward shoulder.

Dive right in and watch the video now!

I hope you enjoyed the entire series on raglan sleeves and gained some new insight as to how to alter them to fit you. If you try any of these methods, let me know how it worked out. I’m always happy to hear from you.

All My Best,
Alexandra

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How to Alter for a Square or Sloping Shoulder on a Raglan Sleeve

 

This month we’re talking all things raglan sleeves. Last week I showed you how a raglan sleeve is created from a basic pattern block so that you can more clearly understand how to make them fit you. This week I’m going to show you the pattern work that solves for a squared or sloping shoulder.

Watch the video now!

I hope you are enjoying this video series. Next week we’ll be covering the bicep girth adjustment for a raglan sleeve. I think the method I’m going to show you will definitely be new to you. I hope you’ll tune in!

All My Best,
Alexandra

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The Prominent Shoulder Blade Adjustment

 

Over the last couple of weeks, we've been talking about fitting the back.

Last week I demonstrated how to assess the muslin and adjust your pattern for a rounded back fitting issue.

This week I want to show you how to adjust for a prominent shoulder blade. I thought it important to cover this fit issue because it seems most people use the rounded back pattern adjustment to solve a prominent shoulder blade issue. While the rounded back adjustment will work to some extent, you may find it will cause another fitting issue.

Watch the video to find out why and what to do instead.

Resources mentioned in this video:

Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

How to True Darts and Manage Dart Volume

If you are looking for more back fitting tutorials check these out:

The Sway Back Adjustment Three Ways

The Broad and Narrow Back Adjustment

I hope you enjoyed this video! If you found it helpful, let me know in the comments or share it with a friend who might.

All My Best,
Alexandra

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PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

Here is the third video from this month's series on Pattern Fundamentals.

In the last two videos I showed you how to rotate darts, how to true them up and how to manage large dart volumes.  If you missed those just click the links below to watch.

PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: Two Essential Skills for Successful Pattern Manipulation

PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: How to True Darts and Manage Dart Volume

Today's video covers three ways to manipulate the back shoulder dart. We'll cover how to rotate it to the neckline, how to create a yoke seam and how to eliminate it entirely without affecting the fit. If you've already read this popular article, you'll find that this week's video brings it all to life.

Enjoy!

As I mentioned in the video, get your FREE Scaled Block Patterns to practice your pattern work. Click the image below to get started!

Share your pattern work from the Pattern Fundamentals series on Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram by posting a photo with the...

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