In Fitting Fashion

How to Create a Raglan Sleeve

 

Recently I’ve gotten some great questions about how to fit raglan sleeves so I thought I’d put together a video series all about them. This week, I’m going to show you how raglan sleeves are developed because understanding that is going to help you understand how to make them fit.

 Watch the video now to see the demonstration.

Once you understand how raglan sleeves are created, fitting them is going to be so much easier. If you’d like to try this technique for yourself and don’t have a basic bodice block of your own, you can download and print my free scaled block patterns. If you’d like to create your own basic block pattern join me in my online pattern making course Designed to Fit: The Bodice Block. You'll create your own personal block that fits you!

Next week, we’ll talk about how to adjust a raglan sleeve for a squared or sloped shoulder. I hope you’ll tune in.

All My Best,
Alexandra

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How to True a Hem Line and Create a Mitered Corner

 

Today I’m wrapping up the series on "details count" and have some quick but important pattern truing tips for you that I think you’ll enjoy. These are simple but very effective in helping you create a professional finish on your hand made garments. This week I’m going to share how to true hem allowances and do the pattern work for a mitered corner.

Jump right in a watch the video now!

I hope you’ll find those tips useful in your next sewing project. If you’ve got something to add or share, don’t hesitate to comment below. Next week I’m taking a break from filming to enjoy some time with family but if you’re on my email list, watch out for next week’s email, I’m announcing the next video series topic and have a special offer all lined up for you.  If you’d like to add your name to the email list all you need to do is sign up to receive your copy of The Perfect Fit Guide. Just click the image below and I'll...

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What is Seam Line Ease?

 

Most sewers are pretty familiar with the term “easing”. You’ll find it in almost all pattern assembly instructions and you’ve probably done it several times if you’ve been sewing for any length of time at all. If you're new or returning to sewing you might be wondering what it is, when you might use it and why it’s even there, so let me clear all of that up for you.

Let’s start with a definition. In essence easing is a sewing technique used to compress a longer seam line length into a shorter one without creating pleats or gathers. There are a few techniques you can use to achieve this but before we get to that I want to explain why the technique even exists.

Simply put, easing adds 3-dimensional shape and replaces darts. As a result, you’ll find that you’ll often be directed to ease is some very specific areas of the pattern.

For Example:

  • Easing in the back shoulder seam or back neckline will replace a back shoulder dart.
  • ...
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How to Correct Seam Line Lengths

 

This week I’ve got a super quick video for you! Last week I showed you how to true your seam line lengths and check your notch positions after you’ve completed your pattern alterations, but from the feedback I received this was something new to a lot of you, so today I’m going to expand a little on the topic and show you another example of what to do if your seam line lengths don’t match.

Let’s jump right into solving this very common problem. Watch the video now.

I hope I’ve answered some of the questions you may have had about last week’s video. If you need to review that one again, you'll find it HERE.

As always, I’m happy to hear from you so leave your comments, questions and suggestions below.

All My Best,
Alexandra

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How to True Seam Lines

 

This week we’re continuing on the theme of "details count". Last week we talked about button placement rules that will help you get the perfect button placement on every garment you make. In today’s video I’m going to show you how to check and true your seam lines.

If there is one thing I’m certain of, it’s that many of you aren’t checking your patterns after you’ve made your fitting alterations. This can be problematic for you when you discover at the sewing stage that your pieces aren’t sewing together easily. So let me show you how you can avoid the frustration of having this happen to you.

Watch the video for all the details.

Resources mentioned in this video can be found by following these links:

Gala Fabrics

Start Here: Your Guide to In-House Patterns Video Tutorials

Button Rules: How to Position Buttons and Button Holes

How to True Darts and Manage Large Dart Volume

So tell me do you walk your seam lines and correct your notch...

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Button Rules: How to Position Buttons and Button Holes

 

This week I thought we’d start a little series that I’m calling “Details Count”. I often get questions and comments on my videos that indicate that most of you aren’t spending enough time reviewing your pattern after you’ve made your fitting alterations, so over the next few weeks we’re going to cover some of the often missed pattern refinements you need to do after you’ve altered your pattern for fit.

This week we're talking Button Rules.

The placement of the buttons at the center front of the garment is pretty important. When you make changes to the button size or alter the patterns length you need to consider how those changes are going to affect the button placement on the finished garment. In order to have a successful outcome you’re going to need a few guidelines. 

Watch the video to get all the details.

If that all seemed a little complicated I’ve prepared a Button Rules download that summarizes...

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How to Get a Professional Finish [Seam Allowances]

 

Last week we talked about how to get a professional finish on your handmade garments and I introduced you to some fashion industry techniques that you can use at home to help you achieve a high-end ready to wear look.

This week we’re diving a little bit deeper and I’m going to show you how varying your seam allowances can elevate your sewing. 

If you’ve been sewing with commercial patterns for any length of time, you’ll know that the seam allowances are generally a standard 5/8” (1.5 cm) on every pattern piece. This seam allowance definitely has its advantages and can even be a saving grace in many cases. It allows you some leeway for making fitting changes after a garment is cut, is suitable for a wide range of fabrics, and can accommodate several different kinds of seam finishes. This is smart considering pattern companies have very little to do with the type of fabric and seam finishes a sewist might choose to use on their project.

But this seam...

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Five Essential Pattern Making Skills for Garment Makers

 

If you had a chance to watch last week’s video, you’ll know that this week I’m going to cover some of the most essential pattern making skills you’ll need when working with existing commercial patterns or designing your own patterns. The skills I highlight today will, without a doubt, give you better results with fitting your garment and simplify your sewing. Follow through with these tips and you’ll finally achieve the professional results you’re looking for. Watch the video to get all the details.

Resources Mentioned in this Video:

#1 Taking Pattern Measurements

The Perfect Fit Guide a free downloadable fitting guide that walks you through a seven step fitting process.

The First Fitting Session: How to Prepare: This video features a demonstration of how to measure a sewing pattern to prepare for the fitting process. (Free downloadable resources included!)

Four Things that will Get You to a Better Fit Faster: This video cover the...

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What to Do with a Block Pattern

 

Recently this question popped into my inbox: Once I have a block, what do I do with it? I get this question a lot so I thought it would be good to address it so everyone can get the benefit of my answer.

Before I do, here’s my definition of what a block is:  A block, sometimes referred to as a sloper, is the foundation of all other patterns. A block can come in the form of a bodice block, a skirt block, or a pant block for either woven or knit fabrics, but in essence, it is the most basic form of a pattern drafted to a specific set of body measurements and fit to a specific body shape. In my definition, a block includes wearing ease, which is the minimum amount of ease needed to accommodate regular day-to-day activities like breathing, reaching, sitting, and walking. This wearing easy can be anywhere between 2” and 4” or 5 to 10 cm and depends entirely on what you feel comfortable in.

Once the basic bodice block is drafted and refined to fit, it’s...

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How to Get Started with Pattern Making

 

In this week's video I wanted to answer a question that I got from a member of the In-House Patterns Studio Facebook Group.

She asked:  How do you get started with pattern making?

She wanted to know where to go to get the best pattern making instruction and basically how to begin designing her own patterns that fit.

I believe this is a growing desire among garment sewing enthusiasts. As we gain and master more advanced sewing skills we become intellectually and creatively ready to level up. We become tired of constantly making the same fitting adjustments to commercial patterns and compromising on styles that are close but not exactly what we were looking for. I believe this question or desire is a natural step in growing your creative abilities.

If you're interested in this topic, watch this video to hear my answer.

After you've finished watching you can explore the links to the FREE resources I mentioned in the video:

FREE Scaled Block Patterns (get your...

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