In Fitting Fashion

Pattern Design Project: BRIA Part 3

 

In the last video lesson we completed the basic draft for the Bria lounge pants. I hope the draft went quickly and easily for you. If things are looking a bit odd, double check your draft calculations, often this is where things get a bit off track.

In this video I want to share some tips on refining the draft before we create the final pattern. We'll alter the waist line, refine the hemline of the shorts and talk about the back crotch extension and how to alter it if you need to.

If you missed getting the Bria drafting instructions, you can get your copy by clicking on the image below.

Once you have completed the pattern refinements, you're ready to add seam and hem allowances. In the next lesson I'll share all the details on what seam allowances and pattern labeling to use, give you a general guide to assembling your Bria's and give you a peak at the final garment.  

While you wait for the next lesson to drop, double check your pattern work. I’ve shared...

Continue Reading...

Pattern Design Project: BRIA Part 2

 

Welcome back to the Bria pattern design project. In the last video I showed you how to take the body measurements needed for this draft and shared some tips on how to interpret the draft instructions and make the draft calculations. Hopefully you gave that a try but If you’re new to pattern drafting, you may have struggled a little with understanding how it all works. If that is the case, you’re in the right place because today is drafting day, and I’m going to walk you through the process one step at a time.

If you missed getting your copy of the drafting instructions, just click on the image below.

After you draft your Bria's you'll have the basic shape and size of our lounge pants defined but there are some additional refinements and fitting considerations to make to the draft before we create the final pattern. I’ll be guiding you through those steps in the next lesson.

While you wait for the next lesson to drop, check your draft calculations one...

Continue Reading...

Pattern Design Project: BRIA Part 1

 

'Tis the season for cozy evenings, indoor projects and handmade gifts so let's make your evenings extra cozy, your indoor projects extra fun and your gifts extra special by creating made to measure lounge pants for you and your family.

New PJ's or lounge pants are always a special treat, especially if they are made to measure in the prints and fabrics you love. They also happen to be a great pattern design project for budding pattern makers because they are easy to make, forgiving to fit, and quick to sew.  

I'm excited to get started on this fun project with you so when you're ready, download and print the drafting instructions and follow along.

Click the image below to get the Bria drafting instructions sent straight to your inbox.

Watch the video with the drafting instructions in hand, I'll share some guidance on what you'll need to get started and show you the best way to proceed to make the draft go quickly and easily.

If this project sounds...

Continue Reading...

Fitting Pants: How to Find the Balance Lines on a Pant Pattern

 

If you’re on my email list you already know that this week I’ll be showing you how to find the balance lines on the In-House Patterns Ellen pants. If you’d like to follow along with your own version of the Ellen pant pattern you can find the pattern HERE. If you’re working with another pant pattern you’ll get some insight on how to find the balance lines on that pattern too.

In the video I share details on finding the balance lines on the size 8 Ellen sewing pattern by In-House Patterns. If you're using another size use the information in the chart below to guide you in placing the Hip, High HIp and Calf balance lines on the size you're working with. Follow the video lesson for the method and the process of finding all the other balance lines.

 In-House Patterns  

Ellen Pant

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

Knee to Hip

15 ½"  

15 "  

15 ¾"  

15 "  

...

Continue Reading...

Solving Back Contour Issues: How to Move a Back Yoke Seam

 

If you caught last weeks video tutorial you’ll know we began a discussion about back contour shaping on a pattern with a back yoke. In that video I shared a method of removing the yoke seam so that you could better understand how to make a standard rounded back adjustment. This week I wanted to talk about the best position for a yoke seam line and how to customize it for your body.

The back yoke is a great styling choice when you have a rounded back because it allows you to shape the back by creating an invisible dart in the yoke seam. This invisible dart, hidden in the seam, has the ability to give you a more refined fit but like a dart the styling will work best if the yoke seam is addressing the most prominent area of the back. If the yoke seam is too high or too low, you may find that you are not achieving the fit you hoped for.

The most prominent area of the back spinal curve usually occur between 2 1/2” to 5” below the base of neck. (That’s about 6 to...

Continue Reading...

Solving Back Contour Issues: How to Eliminate a Back Yoke Seam

 

You might be quite familiar with making adjustments to a pattern to accommodate a more rounded back than what the pattern has been designed for. On a basic pattern with a shoulder dart, the method is well documented and I’ve even created a video tutorial on this as well, but what do you do when the style has a back yoke?

Join me today to learn how to eliminate a back yoke seam to better understand how to alter the pattern for more prominent back contour shaping.

Watch the video now to see how back contour shaping can be incorporated into the back yoke seam as an invisible dart and how to remove the yoke seam and rotate the invisible dart to the shoulder seam so you can easily make a standard rounded back adjustment.

Not sure how to make a standard rounded back adjustment? This video is for you:

The Rounded Back Adjustment

The Lila sewing pattern I shared with you in this video is a Fitting Essentials sewing pattern. When you purchase this pattern you get access...

Continue Reading...

Magical Match

I couldn't resist sharing this lovely article written by Joyce Jones for her local American Sewing Guild chapter newsletter. I was incredibly humbled by the kind words she shared about her experience with my courses but even above that I love the sentiment of her words in regard to the incredible impact that an instructor can have on one's ability to learn and excel in any subject.

Have a read, I hope you enjoy it as much as I did...

 

Magical Match

written by Joyce Jones for the
Northern Virginia Chapter of the American Sewing Guild

If you have a minute for quiet reflection, conjure an image of your very best teacher. Not the one who made you laugh, liked you best, or never assigned homework. Dig a little deeper and visualize the teacher who made things click. You know the one I mean. The one who made you feel capable, curious to know more. If you’ve pulled up a face and a name, and perhaps even a smile, you’ve experienced a Magical...

Continue Reading...

Announcing Something New

 

For me, September always marks a new start. While we are all still clearly trying to find solid ground during this challenging year, a new season always feels like something good might be just around the corner. If you feel that way too, I hope what I share today will be welcome news.

If you've followed any of my fitting tutorials, downloaded The Perfect Fit Guide or taken any of my online classes, you already know how helpful the horizontal and vertical balance lines can be in assessing fit. While I deeply believe this method works, I know it has been difficult for you to put this into action because these markings are not provided on most commercial sewing patterns, so today I am announcing a new In-House Patterns sewing pattern that includes some extra special features.

This is Lila. This pattern is available in a new size range and packaged in a new digital mini-class format.  When you purchase this pattern you get access to an In-House Patterns Studio account where you'll...

Continue Reading...

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 7

 

Early this year I shared a 6 part Pattern Fundamentals video series that walked you through the process of creating a pattern design using your personal basic block pattern.

Did you participate in the Ava design project?

If you did, you may have come upon a bit of a stumbling block that I'd like to help you step over, so this week  I'm adding a Part 7 and answering a question that's come up quite a bit lately.

"What do I do when the bust dart volume isn't enough to create three neckline darts?"

If you stumbled at this stage, I have the answer for you today. Watch the video to learn exactly what to do.

If you missed the series and want to catch up use the links below to follow along!

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part I

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 2

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 3

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 4

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 5

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project:...

Continue Reading...

How to Find Invisible Darts on Pants

 

Last week we talked about invisible darts on bodice patterns. If you happened to miss that video tutorial, take a moment to go back and watch, I think you’ll find it an interesting perspective on the fitting elements that many sewing patterns contain.

This week, I’m expanding on the topic to share the invisible dart locations you’ll find on pant patterns.

Take a moment and watch the video, you may not have considered the fitting elements that I share inside. 

Get your pant scaled block patterns HERE.

Enjoy!

All My Best,
Alexandra

 

Continue Reading...
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Close