In Fitting Fashion

An Invitation

 

We are a society currently living through a period of uncertainty. The daily reports of unsettling news are no doubt causing worry and fear so this week I’d like to offer you a break from all of that.

As we collectively keep each other safe and healthy by self-isolating in our homes, we have the opportunity to turn inward and toward the activities that calm and center us. As sewists we are fortunate to be involved in an activity that is proven to reduce stress and anxiety and are a part of a strong online community that readily offers help, support, humour and distraction just when we need it most. I do hope you and your family are riding out this storm in stride.

Since our current situation keeps us safely in our homes, we will likely find ourselves with a little extra time on our hands so I would like to invite you to a live online workshop.

The workshop is called Three Secrets to Achieving Fitting Success: How to Fit Yourself By Yourself Without Frustration and...

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How to Eliminate a Bust Dart

 

This week’s video is a response to a special request from Linda who recently under went a double mastectomy. Since she still wants to sew the vintage patterns she’s collected over the years, she’d like to know how to reduce or eliminate the bust dart on a pattern. I’m going to answer Linda’s query by sharing a tutorial that can reduce or eliminate the dart volume in a way that you’ve likely not seen before. 

Watch the video to learn how.

While the method I shared here resulted in a reduction or removal of the bust dart volume, it does not change the front waist and hip measurement like the regular small bust adjustment which makes it likely to work for people like Linda who have chosen not to wear a prosthesis after their surgery.  As with all adjustments, you may need to experiment to some degree to customize the pattern to your body.

If you enjoyed this video, you might be interesting in joining me in Fitting Essentials. Fitting...

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Exciting News! [Meet Molly]

 

We've added a new member to the In-House Patterns team! Watch the video to meet Molly and learn about the role she'll play in the future of In-House Patterns.

Here are Molly's details:

Height: 5'6" (167 cm)
Bust: 45" (114cm)
Cup Size C
Waist 38" (96.5cm)
Hip 48" (122 cm)
Shoulder Width 15 1/2" (39 cm)
Across Back 15" (38 cm)
Across Front 14" (35.5cm)
Bicep Girth 15" (38 cm)
CB Neck to Waist 15 3/4" (40 cm)
CB Waist to Hip 8 1/2" (21.5 cm)

Here are Maureen's Details:

Height: 5'8" (172 cm)
Bust: 36" (91.5cm)
Cup Size B
Waist 28 1/2" (72 cm)
Hip 38 1/2" (98 cm)
Shoulder Width 15" (38 cm)
Across Back 14" (35.5 cm)
Across Front 13.5" (34 cm)
Bicep Girth 11" (28 cm)
CB Neck to Waist 16 1/4" (41 cm)
CB Waist to Hip 8" (20 cm)

For the current In-House Patterns Sizing Chart CLICK HERE. Shop for patterns while you're there! The sizing chart for the new sizing category will be coming soon.

If you want to learn more about Molly's on-boarding process check out her highlights on Instagram HERE. I'll continue to...

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What You'll Learn from the Pattern Measurements

 

You probably already know that pattern companies usually supply a few finished pattern measurements on the outside of the pattern envelope. These usually include hem widths and total back length. These serve to give you some idea of the basic dimensions of the finished garment but are rarely very helpful in determining how the pattern will fit you.

You might have more luck by looking inside the pattern envelope. Often you’ll find the finished pattern measurements for the bust, waist and hip girth on the sewing pattern pieces themselves. These are the measurements that will actually help you understand how the pattern will fit. 

Let me share just a few things you can  learn if you are willing to spend a little bit more time with the pattern pieces.

We already know finished pattern measurements for the bust waist and hip can often be found on the pattern pieces but I want you to be a little bit cautious here because I have found that often the printed measurements are...

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Three Tips for Choosing Your Pattern Size

 

It’s a well known fact that most pattern companies provide very limited sizing information on their patterns.  Sewers are asked to choose their pattern size using three main body measurements; bust, waist and hip girth. The assumption is that all of your measurements will land within one size and the choice would be easy. For some of us it is, but what are we to do if our measurements land on two or three size possibilities?

Today I’m going to give you three tips that will help you make a definitive pattern size choice.

#1 Take Your Body Measurements Before You Start a New Sewing Project

The first tip I have for you is to take your body measurements before you start a new sewing project. My body measurements fluctuate by about 1” in circumference as I gain and lose weight throughout the year, so I take my body measurements each time I start a new sewing project. This way I am always aware of my current measurements. I personally use The Pattern...

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Six Steps to Fitting Success

 

Like the majority of sewing enthusiasts, you probably first learned to sew by following a commercial sewing pattern. Along with the step-by-step guidance offered in the pattern’s sewing instructions and a few video tutorials, you probably found it pretty easy to get acceptable results no matter how complicated the garment. You simply executed each step one at a time until the garment was complete. As your sewing skills progressed you likely began to imagine a unique and beautiful handmade wardrobe filling your closet, but you hit the snag that most of us do; getting a good fit became a struggle.

Fitting is generally thought to be a trial and error process and the one thing that impedes sewing progress. There seems to be no road map, no sequence of logical steps to follow and no hope of ever getting a pattern to fit. Today’s video just might help  you change that.

In this week’s video I’m going to share the step by step process I use on all my sewing...

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A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 6

 

Today is big reveal day!

We’ve been diligently working on a little pattern making project that I’ve named Ava. While quite simple in nature, this little project is packed with pattern making tips, tricks and techniques that will help you to understand how to use your personal bodice block. I hope you’ve been working on your own version along with me. If you’re just joining in, not to worry, I’ve got the links to all the previous pattern making tutorials right here:

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 1

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 2

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 3

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 4

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 5

If you don’t have a basic bodice block yet, take a look at my online course Designed to Fit: The Bodice Block. It will walk you through all the steps to create a made to measure bodice block that fits.

If you just want to give pattern making...

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A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 5

 

Designing your own patterns using a personal bodice block is guaranteed to eliminate the fitting frustration that can come along with using commercial patterns. However, having a basic block that fits you is of no use to you if you don’t know what to do with it. So over the entire month of January we’ve been working on a little pattern making project that will help build your pattern making skills and hopefully result in a garment you can wear.

If you’re just catching the pattern making bug be sure to follow along with the entire Ava Design Project series. Here are the links to all the previous videos:

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 1

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 2

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 3

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 4

To follow along all you need is your basic bodice block and a few pattern making supplies. If you don’t have a basic bodice block yet, take a look at my...

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A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 4

 

 We are nearing the finish line for the Ava pattern making project. I hope you’ve been following along and doing the pattern work along with me. If you missed the previous tutorials, click the links below to join in.

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 1

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 2

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 3

2020 is the year you pick up some valuable pattern making skills and use them to create something you can actually wear. 

Last week we finished off the back pattern piece so we’re ready to move on to the sleeve and create the neckline facing. Watch the video to get all the details.

For those of you who already have a personal bodice block, I encourage you to try following along with me using your block. You'll gain the most experience and knowledge by doing so.

If you don't have a personal bodice block and want to create one, I have a very comprehensive online course that will walk you through the...

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A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 3

 

We are smack in the middle of the Ava pattern making project. I hope you’ve been following along and actually doing the pattern work with me. Working on an actual project from start to finish is the best way to learn how to make patterns so I encourage you to jump in and try it.

If you missed the previous tutorials, just follow these links to catch up:

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 1

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 2

This week we continue the pattern work for the Ava top. Today you’ll learn two ways to manipulate the back shoulder dart and how to mimic the styling we created on front bodice on the back. Watch the video to see exactly how it's done.

For those of you who already have a personal bodice block, I encourage you to try following along with me using your block. You'll gain the most experience and knowledge by doing so.

If you don't have a personal bodice block and want to create one, I have a very comprehensive online...

Continue Reading...
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