In Fitting Fashion

How to Draft a Basic Waistband

 

Every year in May I offer a Skirt Block Mini Class. When you sign up during the month of May you get access to the drafting instructions and 5 email lessons that guide you through how to use them.

This mini class is only available during the month of May so if you missed out on the opportunity to sign up, I highly recommend you add your name to my mailing list so you won’t miss out again. You'll get a copy of The Perfect Fit Guide and weekly emails that will build your pattern making and fitting skills.

If you were lucky enough to get access to the mini class, you might just be wondering how to finish off the waistline of your skirt. It’s the natural next step so today I’m going to show you how.

Watch the video to learn how to draft a basic waistband for your skirt. Once you know how to create a basic waistband you can use the information to make a waistband for any skirt, short or pant that sits on or near your natural waist.

If...

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Five Tips to Successfully Fit a Skirt Block

 

Every year in May I offer a Skirt Block Mini Class. When you sign up during the month of May you get access to the drafting instructions and 5 email lessons that guide you through how to use them.

This mini class is only available during the month of May so if you missed out on the opportunity to sign up, I highly recommend you add your name to my mailing list so you won’t miss out again. You'll get a copy of The Perfect Fit Guide and weekly emails that will build your pattern making and fitting skills. Sign Up Here.

If you were lucky enough to get access, I hope you enjoyed the drafting process and have sewn up a test sample of your draft and are ready to assess the fit because in this video I’m going to share some important tips to help you get the fit you want.


Fit Tip #1

The skirt has been drafted to include 1" (2.5 cm) of ease in the waist and 2" (5 cm) of ease in the low hip. Your draft may have turned out to have more or less ease than this. The difference...

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The Skirt Block Mini Class

Each year in May I offer the Skirt Block Mini Class absolutely free. It's just one way that I say thank you to anyone who follows, shares and supports my work.

When you sign up you will  receive the drafting instructions and 5 written lessons sent to you via email that will show you how to use them. It's the perfect project to start with if you want to explore the idea of drafting your own made to measure sewing patterns.

SIGN UP FOR THE SKIRT BLOCK MINI CLASS

In the past, I taught this class through in-person workshops as an introduction to pattern making because it's the perfect project to learn and practice drafting, refining and fitting techniques. Students learn how to measure themselves, how to apply those measurements to paper and how to draft, refine, check and true a pattern, all of which are foundational skills you need to be a good pattern maker. 

When you've completed all of the email lessons (delivered over 5 days) you will have a...

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February 2021 Live Q&A

 

I'm pleased to bring you the replay of the Live Q&A from February 11, 2021!

In this session I wanted to clarify the concept of garment balance and show you how you can use the balance lines to assess the fit a a garment. I hope you'll join me in thanking Tracy for allowing me to use her fitting photos.

Settle in with a cup of tea or a glass of wine and watch, there are definitely advanced fitting concepts covered in this session.

Here are the links to the extra resources mentioned throughout the session:

Three Advanced Strategies to Achieve the Fit You Want: Register Here

Australian Sewing Guild Event

In-House Patterns Studio Facebook Group

The Lila sewing pattern

How to Prepare Your Pattern for Fitting Part 1 and Part 2

Fitting Sleeves Tutorials

How to Walk a Sleeve

The Armhole Sleeve Connection

How to Eliminate a Bust Dart

Enjoy!

All My Best,
Alexandra

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How to Prepare a Pattern For Fitting: Part 2

 

Last week I showed you how to prepare a commercial sewing pattern for fitting using a fairly straight forward shift style dress. Since the dress I used as an example was very similar to a basic block pattern, it was a pretty straight forward exercise, once you understand how to manage the details. If you missed part 1 of this series be sure to watch it. 

This week we’re going to talk about how to prepare the pattern for a flared jacket with a raglan sleeve which you’ll soon see is not nearly as straight forward. Watch the video now to see how to prepare the sewing pattern and find the balance lines on a not-so-basic style.

I hope this example has helped you understand how you can prepare a stylized commercial pattern for fitting and give you the ability to start using the vertical and horizontal balance lines to assess fit. If you’ve tried or used this method to assess fit, share you comments on this page. 

If you want to learn more about balance...

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How to Prepare a Pattern For Fitting: Part 1

 

Fitting is difficult. No number of fitting books, classes and guides you’ve purchased with the words Fast, Quick or Easy in the title, is going to change that fact. Fitting is a process that takes time to perfect and a skill that is acquired through study and experience.

I’ve studied fitting for a very long time. It wasn’t until I started using vertical and horizontal balance lines on my garments that I truly began to understand how to make sewing patterns fit me. These markings made it so much easier to understand the origin and nature of fitting issues and eliminated the confusion of trying to “read the wrinkles”. Once I started focusing on the balance of the garment on my body the wrinkles would magically disappear.

When you draft a pattern to your personal measurements, these vertical and horizontal balance lines are the foundation of the pattern, but what do you do if you are using a commercial pattern? Well this month I’m going to share...

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January 2021 Live Q&A

 

Thank you to everyone who joined in on the Live Q&A Session on January 21, 2021! I am pleased to share the recording with you today.

We chatted about where I'll be focusing my energy this year and shared information about the upcoming Fitting Essentials enrolment dates, current online course offerings, In-House Patterns sewing patterns and the new courses I'll be developing this year.

As promised here are the links to those resources:

Fitting and Pattern Making Tutorials

The Perfect Fit Guide

Fitting Essentials Waitlist

On Demand Online Courses:
The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice
Designed to Fit: The Bodice Block

Sewing Patterns: https://inhousepatterns.com/
Fitting Essentials Size Chart (sizes 2-14 and 12-24) All new sewing patterns will be available in these sizing categories.

Standard Size Chart (Sizes 0-16) Legacy sewing patterns in original pattern sizing.

Private Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/inhousepatternsstudio

The Q&A portion of the live was...

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Skill Building Projects for a Bright December

2020 feels like a guest who has overstayed their welcome!

I for one can't wait until December 31st, when I can usher this crazy year to the door. While it has been challenging to navigate this year, there is always some good that comes with the bad and I am choosing to concentrate on that, so I am keeping hope alive for a much better 2021.

Since 2020 is sticking around for a few more weeks and our Holiday time is likely going to look different than previous years, I thought I would highlight some of the projects you might like to work on to make these last few weeks go as quickly as possible.

 
Pick Up a Pattern on Sale

Ride out the rest of 2020 in your sewing room. Save 20% on all In-House Patterns sewing patterns from December 8th through to December 31st, 2020. Use the coupon code BRIGHTDECEMBER at checkout or simply click THIS LINK to get it automatically applied to your order.

The Chelsea top has always been one of my...

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Fitting Pants: How to Find the Balance Lines on a Pant Pattern

 

If you’re on my email list you already know that this week I’ll be showing you how to find the balance lines on the In-House Patterns Ellen pants. If you’d like to follow along with your own version of the Ellen pant pattern you can find the pattern HERE. If you’re working with another pant pattern you’ll get some insight on how to find the balance lines on that pattern too.

In the video I share details on finding the balance lines on the size 8 Ellen sewing pattern by In-House Patterns. If you're using another size use the information in the chart below to guide you in placing the Hip, High HIp and Calf balance lines on the size you're working with. Follow the video lesson for the method and the process of finding all the other balance lines.

 In-House Patterns  

Ellen Pant

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

Knee to Hip

15 ½"  

15 "  

15 ¾"  

15 "  

...

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Solving Back Contour Issues: How to Move a Back Yoke Seam

 

If you caught last weeks video tutorial you’ll know we began a discussion about back contour shaping on a pattern with a back yoke. In that video I shared a method of removing the yoke seam so that you could better understand how to make a standard rounded back adjustment. This week I wanted to talk about the best position for a yoke seam line and how to customize it for your body.

The back yoke is a great styling choice when you have a rounded back because it allows you to shape the back by creating an invisible dart in the yoke seam. This invisible dart, hidden in the seam, has the ability to give you a more refined fit but like a dart the styling will work best if the yoke seam is addressing the most prominent area of the back. If the yoke seam is too high or too low, you may find that you are not achieving the fit you hoped for.

The most prominent area of the back spinal curve usually occur between 2 1/2” to 5” below the base of neck. (That’s about 6 to...

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