In Fitting Fashion

Alexandra's Favourite Books for Pattern Making and Fitting

 

I often get asked about the contents of my bookshelf, so I thought today you might be interested to see which books I use the most and would recommend that you add to your library.

Watch the video to get a glimpse inside my 5 favourite pattern making and fitting books. I share what I love about each book as well as some of the areas where the content is (just a little) lacking.

Here are my 5 favourite pattern making and fitting books:

Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich

 Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Armstrong

 Dress Fitting: Basic Principles and Practice by Natalie Bray

 The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen

 Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration by Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband, Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Put one on your wishlist or send one to a sewing friend, I have no doubt you'll make good use of these books.

I hope you...

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Love to Sew: Episode 197 Fitting Advice with Alexandra Morgan

I was incredibly excited and grateful to be invited to be a guest on the Love to Sew podcast with Caroline and Helen. 

They were both extremely gracious hosts and guided our conversation with ease and expertise in spite of my nervousness. Somehow we managed to cover topics that ranged from where I grew up to how I transitioned from the fashion industry to the home sewing world and still remarkably had time to offer fitting guidance to six lucky listeners who submitted their fitting photos for the show.

If you submitted a photo, you might be one of the lucky six, but even if you weren't chosen I have no doubt you'll learn a lot from this episode. We discussed fitting issues for 3 tops and 3 pants so you'll get a good overview of some of the more difficult to diagnose issues and some very unconventional ways of solving them.


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The purpose of this post is not only to draw your attention to the episode but also to provide you with some additional resources...

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Pattern Design Project: BRIA Part 4

 

In the last video lesson I shared all the pattern refinements for the Bria lounge pants. We altered the waist line, refined the hemline of the shorts and talked about the back crotch extension and how to alter it if you need to. Your draft should now be refined and ready for the addition of seam and hem allowances.

In this video we’ll talk about what seam and hem allowances to use, the steps to assembling the garment and a take a look at the final garment.

Watch the video now to get all the details for finalizing your Bria lounge pants.

I hope you enjoyed the Bria Pattern Design Project! If you've been following along, I hope you'll share your make in the In-House Patterns Studio Facebook group! Join the group HERE!

If you’re looking for more projects like the Bria pattern design project, I invite you to try out Ava. The Ava pattern design project will teach you to develop a new style from your personal bodice block.

For more step by step classes be sure to check...

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Pattern Design Project: BRIA Part 3

 

In the last video lesson we completed the basic draft for the Bria lounge pants. I hope the draft went quickly and easily for you. If things are looking a bit odd, double check your draft calculations, often this is where things get a bit off track.

In this video I want to share some tips on refining the draft before we create the final pattern. We'll alter the waist line, refine the hemline of the shorts and talk about the back crotch extension and how to alter it if you need to.

If you missed getting the Bria drafting instructions, you can get your copy by clicking on the image below.

Once you have completed the pattern refinements, you're ready to add seam and hem allowances. In the next lesson I'll share all the details on what seam allowances and pattern labeling to use, give you a general guide to assembling your Bria's and give you a peak at the final garment.  

While you wait for the next lesson to drop, double check your pattern work. I’ve shared...

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Pattern Design Project: BRIA Part 2

 

Welcome back to the Bria pattern design project. In the last video I showed you how to take the body measurements needed for this draft and shared some tips on how to interpret the draft instructions and make the draft calculations. Hopefully you gave that a try but If you’re new to pattern drafting, you may have struggled a little with understanding how it all works. If that is the case, you’re in the right place because today is drafting day, and I’m going to walk you through the process one step at a time.

If you missed getting your copy of the drafting instructions, just click on the image below.

After you draft your Bria's you'll have the basic shape and size of our lounge pants defined but there are some additional refinements and fitting considerations to make to the draft before we create the final pattern. I’ll be guiding you through those steps in the next lesson.

While you wait for the next lesson to drop, check your draft calculations one...

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Pattern Design Project: BRIA Part 1

 

'Tis the season for cozy evenings, indoor projects and handmade gifts so let's make your evenings extra cozy, your indoor projects extra fun and your gifts extra special by creating made to measure lounge pants for you, your friends and your family.

New PJ's or lounge pants are always a special treat, especially if they are made to measure in the prints and fabrics you love. They also happen to be a great pattern design project for budding pattern makers because they are easy to draft, forgiving on fit, and quick to sew.  

I'm excited to get started on this fun project with you so when you're ready, download and print the drafting instructions and follow along.

Click the image below to get the Bria drafting instructions sent straight to your inbox.

Watch the video with the drafting instructions in hand, I'll share some guidance on what you'll need to get started and show you the best way to proceed to make the draft go quickly and easily.

If this...

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What I Did this Summer and Other Stories

Did you ever have to write a "What I Did this Summer" essay for school?

I always found summing up two months of summer activities challenging and I often felt I had to make those activities a little more exciting than they may have been, but I did enjoy hearing about my classmate's adventures.

Since I'm popping in after a summer absence, I thought you might like to get a glimpse of what I've been up to in the hope that you'll find my discoveries helpful and activities interesting.

A LITTLE SEWING...

I did manage to get in a little sewing last month and made a cozy Merino Wool Cowl Neck sweater. I purchased this cosy fabric from Riverside Textiles. Try as I might to wear less black, this was the only color available in this fabric at the time of my purchase, but I can't say I was disappointed.  I know this one will be in constant rotation as the Canadian West Coast weather cools.

I created the pattern from my Custom Stretch Knit Bodice block by referencing...

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The Armhole Sleeve Connection

 

Oh those sleeves!

If you've been struggling with fitting sleeves you are in exactly the right place. Today is the day you'll get the guidance and insight you need to make those sleeves fit. In this video you're going to discover what a good fitting armhole looks like and how each part of the sleeve relates to the armhole it is set to.

Before we can even consider the sleeve we must first consider the armhole the sleeve will be set to. For the purpose of this video, I'll be talking specifically about a standard set in sleeve for woven garments and using the Kayla sewing pattern from my Fitting Essentials online course as an example.

A good armhole for a standard set-in sleeve is dependent on getting a lot of things right on the bodice. The shoulder slope, the armhole depth, the across back, the across front and the armhole width all must be correct before you can begin to assess sleeve fit.

Watch the video now to take a look at what a good armhole might look like on your pattern and...

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Three Ways to Determine Your Cup Size

 

What's your cup size? 

I'm sure this isn't a question you get often but the answer is really important if you want to achieve a good fit on the garments you create. Keep watching to discover three ways to determine your cup size and why one method might work better for you than the others.

Cup Size Theory

Before we dive into the three ways to determine your cup size, let's talk about the theory behind cup sizing. The theory goes like this: Each cup size represents a change in breast size or bust projection of 1.25 cm or ½".

In our little sewing world this means that the front bodice width and length must increase or decrease to accommodate the various cup sizes. If your cup size doesn't match that of the sewing pattern you will need to make a bust adjustment. In order to make that adjustment,  you'll need to know your personal cup size. I'd like to share three methods to determine your cup size and provide some insight as to why one method may work better than...

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How to Draft Culottes using a Flared Skirt Pattern

 

Every year in May I offer a Skirt Block Mini Class. When you sign up during the month of May (ending soon!) you get access to the drafting instructions and 5 email lessons that guide you through how to use them.

This mini class is only available during the month of May so if you missed out on the opportunity to sign up, I highly recommend you add your name to my mailing list so you won’t miss out again. You'll get a copy of The Perfect Fit Guide and weekly emails that will build your pattern making and fitting skills.

If you followed through with all of the lessons in the mini class you’ll already have a flared skirt pattern that you can use to follow along in this week’s project. If you haven’t created a flared skirt pattern yet, you’ll need to create one or have a commercial pattern you can use as your foundation because this week I’m showing you how to create culottes using a flared skirt pattern.

Watch the video now to...

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