Over the past couple of weeks we've been diving deep into sleeve fitting. In the first video of the series we talked about the armhole shape and size and determined how to assess if it will be a good foundation for your sleeve. In the second video of the series we talked about the sleeve itself and determined how to assess if it will fit into the bodice armhole correctly.

This week I want to demonstrate how to asses and trouble shoot the fit of the sleeve in a "real life" sample so I'm sending a big THANK YOU to Jill who has allowed me to use her photos in this video. I have no doubt that this example will help someone else struggling with fitting sleeves.

While this example is a knit sleeve, it represents the same issues that are found commonly in woven sleeves as well. Watch the video for a demonstration on how to assess the sample for fit and direction on how to adjust the pattern to follow.

Here are the links to the resources mentioned in this week's video:

The Forward Shoulder...

Last week we talked about the bodice armhole and how to assess if will be a good foundation for the sleeve. If you missed that video you can watch it HERE.

This week is all about the sleeve and how you can determine if it's a good match for the armhole. Watch the video to get some inside information about bicep ease, sleeve cap ease and optimal cap height for a good fitting set in sleeve.

I'll also show you how to walk your sleeve to the armhole so that you can determine the sleeve cap ease and see the relationship between the armhole and sleeve seam lines. For more on walking the sleeve, watch this video: 

Quick Tips for Patterns That Fit: Take a Walk

After you've watched the video, share your thoughts in the comments below.

Next week you'll see a "real life" example of a sleeve that's not quite right and I'll share my assessment of the issues and suggest some pattern adjustments that will help to improve the fit. I hope you'll tune in.

All My Best,
Alexandra

Fitting sleeves can sometimes be even more challenging than fitting pants.

Most of us have experienced strange draglines, odd twisting and general discomfort on the sleeves of at least one of our sewing projects. Finding the cause and the solution can be frustrating so today I’d like to begin a video series all about sleeves.

I’m starting this series with one of the most important elements of a good fitting sleeve: the bodice armhole. I’m starting here because it is impossible to achieve a good fitting sleeve if the armhole it is sitting on doesn’t fit. The armhole must be the correct size and shape for your body before you can even begin assessing the sleeve. Watch the video to dive a bit deeper into what a good fitting armhole looks like and how to assess if it’s a good base for your sleeve.

After you watch the video, I'd love to know if you had any insights or ah ha moments; I hope you'll share them in the comments!

If you’re interested in other tutorials and videos on the subje...

If you've been struggling with getting the accurate body measurements you need to choose the correct size and fit your sewing patterns, this video is for you! Today I'm showing you exactly how I measure myself each time I begin a new sewing project.

I'll be using The Pattern Measurement Worksheet to demonstrate the process so if you don't yet have your copy, download it here:

Once you've got your pattern measurement worksheet in hand, follow along with the video to record your own personal body measurements.

If you enjoyed this video, I'd love to hear it! Share your thoughts in the comments below!

All My Best,
Alexandra

A few weeks ago I sent a survey to my email list. The purpose of the survey was to get an idea about what they were struggling with so that I could be of greater service to them. One of the questions I posed was this:

If you could ask me one question regarding your struggle what would it be?

In my previous email I answered some of the more personal questions, this week I'm answering the five most common questions asked about fitting. The short hand version of the video content is below for your convenience, but if you need elaboration on any of the topics, by all means watch the video!

Here we go:

1. Where do you start with fitting?

First, choose a simple pattern to experiment with. The Chelsea top by In-House Patterns or the Scout Tee by Grainline Studios (best for small cup sizes) is perfect for your first fitting project. The Montrose top by Cashmerette is also a good choice.

Next, choose the appropriate pattern size. To do this, determine how the pattern’s size chart measure...

A short time ago I sent a survey to my email list. The purpose of the survey was to get an idea about what they were struggling with so that I could be of greater service to them. One of the questions I posed was this:

If you could ask me one question regarding your struggle what would it be?

To my surprise there were a lot of personal questions in the mix that were asked several times, so I thought I would share my answers in this weeks video. The short hand version of the video is below for your convenience, but if you need elaboration on any of the topics, by all means watch the video!

Here we go:

1. How do you make time for your personal sewing?

 It’s difficult, to say the least, especially since my business has grown, but I have made my personal sewing a part of my business because I believe that the time I invest in personal projects ultimately serves you. As I move through a sewing project, I experience the same struggles that you do. I have limitations on time, fabric, ma...

As the video tutorials pile up, watchers and readers are starting to ask, "where do I start?" Well, I've got the answer today. If you're new to the In-House Patterns community, here's your path to navigating the tutorials according to your area of interest. Watch the video for all the details and follow the links below.

✂️ FOR THE GARMENT SEWER

The Perfect Fit Guide

If you are an avid garment sewer and struggling with fitting your sewing projects, I want you to start by downloading your free copy of The Perfect Fit Guide. The guide will be sent directly to your inbox so that you can download and print it. The Perfect Fit Guide will be followed up with subsequent emails that will give you additional resources and worksheets to help with fitting your sewing projects.

Fitting Fundamentals

There are a few videos that are directly related to The Perfect Fit Guide so you’ll want to watch them first. You’ll find these videos under Fitting Fundamentals. This is a series of four videos t...

The most challenging thing about fitting pants is getting the patterns crotch curve to reflect the shape of the body it is being fit to. An ill-fitting crotch curve results in draglines, wrinkles and excess fabric that can make pants uncomfortable and unflattering. The crotch curve needs to accommodate the length, width and depth of the body as well as align to the curves within those parameters. This area of the human body is as individual as your DNA so it’s no wonder we have trouble figuring out what to do when we’re not satisfied with the fit of our pants.

 This week we’re on to video #4 of the Fitting Pants video series. If you’ve missed the previous videos, I encourage you to go back and watch them. They contain important information that will help you understand the concepts I present today.

Fitting Pants: How to Get Started

Fitting Pants: The Tummy Adjustment

Fitting Pants: The Seat Adjustment

 When fitting the crotch curve of pants what you are actually doing is designing...

Today’s video is a continuation of the Fitting Pants video series. This is the third video in the series so if you missed the first two, follow the links below to catch up.

Fitting Pants: How to Get Started

Fitting Pants: The Tummy Adjustment

This week we’re going to look a little closer at the rear view of our pants and discuss the full and flat seat fitting issues. These are what I like to call companion fit issues because the solutions to each of these are essentially the exact opposite of each other. While one will require and increase in the pattern dimensions, the other will require a decrease, but both use the same alteration lines in the pattern adjustment technique.

Before we jump into solving this week’s issue, once again, there are a few things you need to confirm before you start the fitting process. Make sure you have your balance lines marked on your garment, be sure you’ve chosen the correct pattern size, and use the fitting order as I’ve taught you throughout the Pe...

Pants are notoriously difficult to fit. This is considered common knowledge in the garment sewing community and has most likely caused many of you to not even bother trying to sew pants. Even I have avoided making pants for fear of spending countless hours trying to get the fit just right. So let’s see if we can tackle this difficult subject together.

In last week’s video I gave you some basic information and a few resources to get you started with fitting pants. This week I wanted to start with a solution to a fitting issue I’ve often seen with my private clients, the tummy adjustment, but before we get to that there are a few things you need to confirm before you start the fitting process for this fitting issue.

1. Make sure you have your balance lines marked on your garment. You’ll need them to assess the fit.

2. Make sure you’ve chosen the correct pattern size. There is no use to fitting a garment that is too small.

3. Use the fitting order as I’ve taught you throughout the Per...