This week I wanted to share how to adjust the shoulder width on a garment with straps [featuring the In-House Patterns Sophie dress].

I often see and hear comments on how making shoulder adjustments is hard, but it's actually very easy and definitely nothing to be afraid of. I am sure that after you've watched, you won't be intimidated by it any longer.

I made the Sophie dress for myself a while back and thought I'd share a photo. I made view A for it's sophisticated "little black dress" appeal.

If you're wondering what the "other" shoulder width adjustment is, you can see it here: How to Adjust Shoulder Width on a Garment with Sleeves.

Just a reminder, if you are making a shoulder width alteration on a style with separate lining patterns (like the Sophie dress), be sure to make the same adjustments to those pieces as well!

Enjoy!

All My Best,
Alexandra

Last week I showed you how to determine the shoulder slope on a sewing pattern. If you missed it, you can watch it HERE.

This week you'll learn how to translate the pattern's shoulder slope information into your degree of shoulder slope using a long forgotten tool that I am pretty sure you'll find in your junk drawer or a family member's school supply kit.

Once you've determined your degree of shoulder slope you'll have all the information you need to transfer the information to any sewing pattern.

All My Best,
Alexandra

This week I've got a really quick video that I hope you’ll find truly helpful.

It answers a question from Kelly who wanted to know how to measure her shoulder slope. A quick google search will give you several options. You can trace your shoulder line onto a piece of paper taped to the wall or use an iPhone app to determine the degree of slant. I personally haven’t found these to be very accurate because you usually need a helper to work with you, so I rely on the sample fit assessment to tell me what the shoulder slope should be.

Once you have a sample a garment that fits your shoulder angle, you can record that information for future use. So today I’m going to show you how to measure the shoulder slope on a pattern so that you can use the information for future sewing sewing projects.

Once you watch the video and understand how to measure the shoulder slope on a pattern you can convert this information to degrees if needed by using a protractor. To fuel yourself with even more kno...

Have you ever noticed that some garments just don't sit right on your shoulders?

The forward shoulder adjustment might be the solution you've been looking for. In this video tutorial, I share two essential techniques to rectify this common fitting issue.

The forward shoulder adjustment is helpful for those whose shoulder line sits more forward than average and addresses the unique curvature of your shoulder, ensuring a more comfortable fit and a better sleeve hang.

Technique 1: The Seam Position Change

This method is straightforward and popular, perfect for minor adjustments without altering the overall fit of your bodice.

This adjustment is excellent if your only issue is the shoulder seam position. However, it requires a corresponding sleeve adjustment to maintain proper fit. By moving the notch on your sleeve forward, you ensure the sleeve sits correctly on your body without altering its overall shape.

Technique 2: The True Forward Shoulder Adjustment

For those experiencing m...

Two Methods to Correct Forward Head Posture in Your Sewing Patterns

Are you struggling with fitting issues caused by forward head posture?
In this video, I'll show you an example of a forward head posture and two ways to adjust the pattern for this fitting issue.

First Adjustment Method:

Raising the Back Neckline and Moving the Shoulder Seam Forward: Learn how to create slash lines on your pattern to adjust the back neckline and shoulder seam. This method ensures that the back neckline is raised, the shoulder seam is moved forward, and the front neck drop is lowered, maintaining balance and fit.

Sleeve Adjustment: Discover how to modify your sleeve pattern to accommodate the changes made to the armhole, ensuring a seamless fit.

Second Adjustment Method:

Adjusting the Neckline Without Changing the Shoulder Point: This method is perfect if the shoulder line position is correct, but the back neck is too low, and the front neck is too high. We guide you through creating slash lines to...

Want to create a beautifully fitted strapless bodice? This video is for you!

If you'd like to learn more about the bust circle and the contour darts used for necklines and armholes, be sure to watch the other videos from this series, you'll find them here:

Video 1: The Bust Circle Defined

Video 2: Neckline Contour Darts

Video 3: Armhole Contour Darts

This week, we're looking at the contour darts used to create strapless styling. Once again, I'm going to show you where they go, what size they usually are and how to use them to create a strapless, princess seamed, torso length bodice.

If you're interested in creating a personal bodice block, I can help you create one in Designed to Fit: The Bodice Block. I'll show you how to draft, refine and fit a hip length bodice and sleeve using your personal measurements. Learn how here.

All My Best,
Alexandra

If you want to develop sleeveless garments from your self drafted patterns you'll need to incorporate contour or gape darts. Contour or gape darts are designed to eliminate gape and excess ease in closely fitted garments. In this video I'll show you how to plot the armhole contour darts and how to use them to create a sleeveless garment.

For more information about the bust circle and neckline contour darts see my previous videos, watch them here:

Video 1: The Bust Circle Defined

Video 2: Neckline Contour Darts

This week, we're looking at the contour darts used to eliminate gaping armholes. Once again, I'm going to show you where they go, what size they usually are and how to use them. 

I've recommended a couple of other videos in this mini lesson; these links will get you there is a snap! I hope you enjoy!

Two Essential Skills for Pattern Manipulation

Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

A quick note here:

This method is best used after you've developed a good fitting b...

If you want to develop lowered necklines or cross over bodices from your self drafted patterns you'll need to incorporate contour or gape darts. Contour or gape darts are designed to eliminate gape and excess ease in closely fitted garments. In this video I'll show you how to plot the neckline contour darts and how to use them to create a lowered neckline and a cross over bodice.

I shared the basic principles of contour darts in a previous video. It's a good idea to watch that video before delving into this one.

The Bust Circle Defined

A quick note here:

This method is best used after you've developed a good fitting basic block pattern. If you find yourself constantly struggling with fitting no matter what pattern company you use, creating a set of personalized pattern blocks may just be the right next step for you. If you'd like more information about that, I'll leave a link for you in the description of this video.

If you're interested in creating a personal bodice block, I can...

Do you struggle with gaping necklines and armholes on your self drafted patterns? Would you like to fit your bodice more closely, or perhaps create a strapless bodice pattern? If so, this video is for you because I'm going to define the bust circle and tell you how it's related to achieving a good fit over your body contours.

First of all, what do I mean by body contours? 

Think of the body as a landscape. It has hills, valleys and plains. Some hills are higher, some valleys deeper, and some plains more expansive.  Imagine a flat sheet of muslin lightly draped over this landscape, you'll notice that in some areas the muslin will touch the landscape, in others there will be voids or empty spaces. Where the muslin touches this landscape you'll likely find hills. Where you find voids, will most likely be valleys. 

Now consider the front of the body. You'll easily be able to recognize the most prominent or highest hill; the bust. The highest point of the bust is the bust point. The deep...

Recently this question popped into my inbox: "How do I begin creating my own patterns that fit?" I get this question a lot so I thought it would be good to address it. In this video I'll share the answer to this question and give you an opportunity that you'll definitely want to take me up on if you want to get started at no cost to you.

If you're someone with a growing desire to learn more about pattern making for fit and design, you're not alone.  As you gain and master more advanced sewing skills you'll naturally become intellectually and creatively ready to level up. You'll likely become tired of constantly making the same fitting adjustments to commercial sewing patterns and fed up with compromising on styles that are close, but not exactly what you're looking for.

If you constantly struggle with fitting no matter what pattern company you use, creating a set of personalized pattern blocks may just be the right next step for you. A basic block drafted to your measurements and ref...