In Fitting Fashion

How to Alter for a Forward Shoulder on a Raglan Sleeve

 

I’m wrapping up this month’s video series on raglan sleeves today so if you missed any of the previous tutorials, I suggest you watch them. I’m pretty sure you’re going to find some new to you information inside.

How to Create a Raglan Sleeve

How to Alter a Raglan Sleeve for a Square or Sloping Shoulder

How to Alter the Bicep on a Raglan Sleeve

Today I’m going to show you how to alter your raglan sleeve for a forward shoulder.

Dive right in and watch the video now!

I hope you enjoyed the entire series on raglan sleeves and gained some new insight as to how to alter them to fit you. If you try any of these methods, let me know how it worked out. I’m always happy to hear from you.

All My Best,
Alexandra

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How to Alter the Bicep on a Raglan Sleeve

 

This week we’re continuing on the topic of raglan sleeves. In the first video of the series I showed you how a raglan sleeve is created. In the second video I showed you how to alter for a square or sloping shoulder. This week I’m going to show you how to alter the bicep girth.

Watch the video now!

Let me know in the comments if this method is new to you, better yet, if you’ve tried it, let me know how it worked. I’m always happy to hear from you. Next week is the last video of this series and I think it’s one you’re going to want to bookmark.

All My Best,
Alexandra

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How to Alter for a Square or Sloping Shoulder on a Raglan Sleeve

 

This month we’re talking all things raglan sleeves. Last week I showed you how a raglan sleeve is created from a basic pattern block so that you can more clearly understand how to make them fit you. This week I’m going to show you the pattern work that solves for a squared or sloping shoulder.

Watch the video now!

I hope you are enjoying this video series. Next week we’ll be covering the bicep girth adjustment for a raglan sleeve. I think the method I’m going to show you will definitely be new to you. I hope you’ll tune in!

All My Best,
Alexandra

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How to Create a Raglan Sleeve

 

Recently I’ve gotten some great questions about how to fit raglan sleeves so I thought I’d put together a video series all about them. This week, I’m going to show you how raglan sleeves are developed because understanding that is going to help you understand how to make them fit.

 Watch the video now to see the demonstration.

Once you understand how raglan sleeves are created, fitting them is going to be so much easier. If you’d like to try this technique for yourself and don’t have a basic bodice block of your own, you can download and print my free scaled block patterns. If you’d like to create your own basic block pattern join me in my online pattern making course Designed to Fit: The Bodice Block. You'll create your own personal block that fits you!

Next week, we’ll talk about how to adjust a raglan sleeve for a squared or sloped shoulder. I hope you’ll tune in.

All My Best,
Alexandra

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How to Solve Knit Fitting Issues-Part 2

 

This week we’re continuing the Fitting Knits video series. If you happen to missed the previous episodes, you can find them HERE.

Today I'm going to address those diagonal draglines at the side of the bust and that excess fabric at the back waist. I think you'll be surprised at how I'd suggest to correct this.

Before we continue on with Robin’s fit assessment, I want to remind you about a free download that I’ve created that will help you with assessing the fit of your own projects. It’s called The Good Fit Checklist. It contains information on how to recognize a good fit, how to diagnose fitting issues and the order you need to work to solve them. Sign up to receive your copy; it’s absolutely free.

Now watch the video to see how to solve a few more of Robin’s fitting issues.

So did I surprise you with that bust adjustment? This is a bust fitting technique I share inside my online course, The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice Block. If...

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How to Solve Knit Fitting Issues-Part I

 

Remember last week when we talked about how to diagnose knit fitting issues? Well this week we’re going to solve them! We’re going to continue on with Robin’s sample and take the fitting assessment to the next step.

Before we continue on with Robin’s fit assessment though, I want to remind you about a free download that I’ve created that will help you with assessing the fit of your own projects. It’s called The Good Fit Checklist. It contains information on how to recognize a good fit, how to diagnose fitting issues and the order you need to work to solve them. Sign up to receive your copy; it’s absolutely free.

Now watch the video for the solutions to the diagnosis we made on Robin's sample last week.

Did you notice that Robin hasn’t added her horizontal and vertical balance lines on her sample?  If she had, it would be so much easier to assess the amount of change required and the location of the change. This is a fitting...

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How to Diagnose Knit Fitting Issues

 

Welcome to video #2 of the Fitting Knits video series!

Last week you got an inside peak at my online course The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice Block and I showed you how to determine the stretch ratio of your fabric which is an important first step in getting the right fit on your knit garments. This week I’m going to share a few insights on how to diagnose your knit fitting issues.

For this video, I’ve enlisted the help of Robin, who wrote to me in hope of getting some guidance on fitting her knit garment project.

Robin writes:

 Hi Alexandra,

I’ve been having trouble with all the tops I am making and can’t seem to figure out how to resolve them. I have spent hours on Youtube, the internet, books etc. I make my own patterns and have even used a commercial pattern, not to mention that every RTW shirt in my closet has the same fitting problems.

I can’t figure out how to get rid of the diagonal draglines from the back and bottom of the armhole/sleeve. I...

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How to Determine Fabric Stretch Ratio

 

This week I’ve got a special treat for you. This month we’re covering the topic of fitting knits so I thought you might enjoy a glimpse inside my online course The Custom Stretch Kit Bodice Block. This course teaches you how to draft a custom size t-shirt to your personal body measurements using the stretch ratio of your chosen fabric. It’s loaded with valuable information about knits and custom knit pattern making and I can’t resist sharing a piece of the information I know you can all use.

The stretch ratio of a knit is extremely important when it comes to getting a successful fit. In order to eliminate the darts on a knit garment, you must use negative ease and the stretch ratio of the fabric to force the fabric around your body contours. If you’re not using the fabrics ability to stretch, you will be left with draglines and folds that you must become comfortable with or manage in some other way. Over the next few weeks we’re going cover these...

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How to True a Hem Line and Create a Mitered Corner

 

Today I’m wrapping up the series on "details count" and have some quick but important pattern truing tips for you that I think you’ll enjoy. These are simple but very effective in helping you create a professional finish on your hand made garments. This week I’m going to share how to true hem allowances and do the pattern work for a mitered corner.

Jump right in a watch the video now!

I hope you’ll find those tips useful in your next sewing project. If you’ve got something to add or share, don’t hesitate to comment below. Next week I’m taking a break from filming to enjoy some time with family but if you’re on my email list, watch out for next week’s email, I’m announcing the next video series topic and have a special offer all lined up for you.  If you’d like to add your name to the email list all you need to do is sign up to receive your copy of The Perfect Fit Guide. Just click the image below and I'll...

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What is Seam Line Ease?

 

Most sewers are pretty familiar with the term “easing”. You’ll find it in almost all pattern assembly instructions and you’ve probably done it several times if you’ve been sewing for any length of time at all. If you're new or returning to sewing you might be wondering what it is, when you might use it and why it’s even there, so let me clear all of that up for you.

Let’s start with a definition. In essence easing is a sewing technique used to compress a longer seam line length into a shorter one without creating pleats or gathers. There are a few techniques you can use to achieve this but before we get to that I want to explain why the technique even exists.

Simply put, easing adds 3-dimensional shape and replaces darts. As a result, you’ll find that you’ll often be directed to ease is some very specific areas of the pattern.

For Example:

  • Easing in the back shoulder seam or back neckline will replace a back shoulder dart.
  • ...
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