In Fitting Fashion

Recently this question popped into my inbox: Once I have a block, what do I do with it? I get this question a lot so I thought it would be good to address it so everyone can get the benefit of my answer.

Before I do, here’s my definition of what a block is:  A block, sometimes referred to as a sloper, is the foundation of all other patterns. A block can come in the form of a bodice block, a skirt block, or a pant block for either woven or knit fabrics, but in essence, it is the most basic form of a pattern drafted to a specific set of body measurements and fit to a specific body shape. In my definition, a block includes wearing ease, which is the minimum amount of ease needed to accommodate regular day-to-day activities like breathing, reaching, sitting, and walking. This wearing easy can be anywhere between 2” and 4” or 5 to 10 cm and depends entirely on what you feel comfortable in.

Once the basic bodice block is drafted and refined to fit, it’s...

OK so, truth be told, I'm taking a little break from filming this week.

You see, I know you may not have been keeping up with the weekly posts, after all you have a life to live and it doesn't always involve your sewing hobby. So I'm declaring this week a catch-up week! 

Here is a list of some of the fitting tutorials you may have missed or simply would like to review again. Everyone needs a refresher now and again.

The Forward Shoulder Adjustment (Two Ways)

The Broad and Narrow Back Adjustment

The Shoulder Width Adjustment (Two Ways)

Now if those don't sound interesting to you and you'd like to work on your sewing techniques instead, I've got these tutorials just waiting for you:

The French Binding Tutorial

How to Construct a Single Welt Pocket

The Front Fly Tutorial

Of course, if you've missed the last few weeks of video tutorials, poke around the blog or try out the search bar in the top corner of this page, you just might discover exactly what you need today.

Oh!...

Over the last couple of weeks, we've been talking about fitting the back.

Last week I demonstrated how to assess the muslin and adjust your pattern for a rounded back fitting issue.

This week I want to show you how to adjust for a prominent shoulder blade. I thought it important to cover this fit issue because it seems most people use the rounded back pattern adjustment to solve a prominent shoulder blade issue. While the rounded back adjustment will work to some extent, you may find it will cause another fitting issue.

Watch the video to find out why and what to do instead.

Resources mentioned in this video:

Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

How to True Darts and Manage Dart Volume

If you are looking for more back fitting tutorials check these out:

The Sway Back Adjustment Three Ways

The Broad and Narrow Back Adjustment

I hope you enjoyed this video! If you found it helpful, let me know in the comments or share it with a friend who might.

All My Best,
Alexandra

...

Last week that we talked about fitting the back and I demonstrated a little draping lesson to show you how important the back shoulder dart is to achieving a good fit.

This week, I want to continue the conversation about fitting the back by talking about what most people call the rounded back adjustment. I’m going to use my lovely assistant Marjie to demonstrate what how to recognize this fit issue in your sample and then how to adjust your pattern to correct it.

Next week I'll cover another common back fitting issue. I hope you'll tune in!

Resources mentioned in this video:

Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

How to True Darts and Manage Dart Volume

If you are looking for more back fitting tutorials check these out:

The Sway Back Adjustment Three Ways

The Broad and Narrow Back Adjustment

Enjoy!

All My Best,
Alexandra

This week I wanted to concentrate specifically on the fitting of the back bodice. Fitting the back of the body is obviously challenging due to the fact that we simply can’t see what’s going on back there. When you twist to view the back or even move your arms, you automatically change the way the garment hangs. So what are you to do?

Well, I have a couple of suggestions in the video that may help as well as a draping lesson that will clearly show you what fitting elements are needed for a good fitting bodice without a gaping neckline or armhole.

I hope you enjoy!

Here are the links to the resources mentioned in the video:

The Perfect Fit Guide

The Fitting Fundamentals Video Series

How to Take Fitting Photos for Greater Fitting Success

Extra curricular viewing:

Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

Four Things to Get You to a Better Fit Faster

How Patterns Work

The Bust Circle Series: 

The Bust Circle Defined

Neckline Contour Darts

Armhole Contour Darts

...

In this week's video I wanted to answer a question that I got from a member of the In-House Patterns Studio Facebook Group.

She asked:  How do you get started with pattern making?

She wanted to know where to go to get the best pattern making instruction and basically how to begin designing her own patterns that fit.

I believe this is a growing desire among garment sewing enthusiasts. As we gain and master more advanced sewing skills we become intellectually and creatively ready to level up. We become tired of constantly making the same fitting adjustments to commercial patterns and compromising on styles that are close but not exactly what we were looking for. I believe this question or desire is a natural step in growing your creative abilities.

If you're interested in this topic, watch this video to hear my answer.

After you've finished watching you can explore the links to the FREE resources I mentioned in the video:

FREE Scaled Block Patterns (get your...

This is video number four of this pattern fundamentals series all about the bust circle and contour darts. If you've missed the first three, you'll find them here:

Video 1: The Bust Circle Defined

Video 2: Neckline Contour Darts

Video 3: Armhole Contour Darts

This week, we're looking at the contour darts used to create strapless styling. Once again, I'm going to show you where they go, what size they usually are and how to use them to create a strapless, princess seamed, torso length bodice.

PS
If you don't have a basic bodice block that fits you, I can help you create one. Learn how here.

All My Best,
Alexandra

This is video number three of this pattern fundamentals series all about the bust circle and contour darts. If you've missed the first two, back track a little and watch them here:

Video 1: The Bust Circle Defined

Video 2: Neckline Contour Darts

This week, we're looking at the contour darts used to eliminate gaping armholes. Once again, I'm going to show you where they go, what size they usually are and how to use them. 

I've recommended a couple of other videos in this mini lesson; these links will get you there is a snap! I hope you enjoy!

Two Essential Skills for Pattern Manipulation

Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

PS
If you don't have a basic bodice block that fits you, I can help you create one. Learn how here.

All My Best,
Alexandra

Today we're using the bust circle that we defined last week to map out the contour or gape darts for the neckline area. If you missed that video, you'll need to watch it to understand how this works.

Pattern Fundamentals: The Bust Circle Defined

In this video you'll find out where to place the contour darts, how large they usually are and how to use them on a lowered and surplus necklines.

Next week you can look forward to a new video in this series where I'll show you how define the contour darts for the armhole so that you can eliminate any gaping in that area as you start designing cut out armhole shapes.

All My Best,
Alexandra

PS
Curious about how to get started with pattern making? You can view the all the pattern fundamental videos right here for free.  To get started on your personal basic block set, start here.

In the last couple of weeks we’ve been talking about fitting necklines. As you’ve seen in the previous videos, there are definitely some special considerations when fitting your pattern to this area of the body.

Posture plays an important role in the placement of the neck opening as I demonstrated in the forward neck video and body contours or shape will also impact the way a neckline fits as I showed in the video about neck balance.

This week I wanted to dive even deeper into how the contours of the body affect the fit of the neckline as well as the armhole and introduce you to something called the bust circle.

In this video I'll explain what I mean by body contours and show you how to determine the size of the bust circle and how to draw it on your basic pattern.  All this in preparation for mapping contour or gape darts that will solve issues with gaping necklines and armholes.

Enjoy!

All My Best Alexandra

PS If you are interested in developing...