In Fitting Fashion

Most sewers are pretty familiar with the term “easing”. You’ll find it in almost all pattern assembly instructions and you’ve probably done it several times if you’ve been sewing for any length of time at all. If you're new or returning to sewing you might be wondering what it is, when you might use it and why it’s even there, so let me clear all of that up for you.

Let’s start with a definition. In essence easing is a sewing technique used to compress a longer seam line length into a shorter one without creating pleats or gathers. There are a few techniques you can use to achieve this but before we get to that I want to explain why the technique even exists.

Simply put, easing adds 3-dimensional shape and replaces darts. As a result, you’ll find that you’ll often be directed to ease is some very specific areas of the pattern.

For Example:

• Easing in the back shoulder seam or back neckline will replace a back shoulder dart.
• ...

This week I’ve got a super quick video for you! Last week I showed you how to true your seam line lengths and check your notch positions after you’ve completed your pattern alterations, but from the feedback I received this was something new to a lot of you, so today I’m going to expand a little on the topic and show you another example of what to do if your seam line lengths don’t match.

Let’s jump right into solving this very common problem. Watch the video now.

I hope I’ve answered some of the questions you may have had about last week’s video. If you need to review that one again, you'll find it HERE.

As always, I’m happy to hear from you so leave your comments, questions and suggestions below.

All My Best,
Alexandra

This week we’re continuing on the theme of "details count". Last week we talked about button placement rules that will help you get the perfect button placement on every garment you make. In today’s video I’m going to show you how to check and true your seam lines.

If there is one thing I’m certain of, it’s that many of you aren’t checking your patterns after you’ve made your fitting alterations. This can be problematic for you when you discover at the sewing stage that your pieces aren’t sewing together easily. So let me show you how you can avoid the frustration of having this happen to you.

Watch the video for all the details.

Resources mentioned in this video can be found by following these links:

Gala Fabrics

Start Here: Your Guide to In-House Patterns Video Tutorials

Button Rules: How to Position Buttons and Button Holes

How to True Darts and Manage Large Dart Volume

So tell me do you walk your seam lines and correct your notch...

This week I thought we’d start a little series that I’m calling “Details Count”. I often get questions and comments on my videos that indicate that most of you aren’t spending enough time reviewing your pattern after you’ve made your fitting alterations, so over the next few weeks we’re going to cover some of the often missed pattern refinements you need to do after you’ve altered your pattern for fit.

This week we're talking Button Rules.

The placement of the buttons at the center front of the garment is pretty important. When you make changes to the button size or alter the patterns length you need to consider how those changes are going to affect the button placement on the finished garment. In order to have a successful outcome you’re going to need a few guidelines. 

Watch the video to get all the details.

If that all seemed a little complicated I’ve prepared a Button Rules download that summarizes...

Last week I got a great question from Kimberly in the In-House Patterns Studio private Facebook group.

She asked:

"How do you find the bust, waist and hip position on a sewing pattern that doesn't have any of these markings?"

If you have a copy of The Perfect Fit Guide you probably had this question too so I decided to do a live recording of my answer and post it here for everyone to benefit.

If you don't have your copy of The Perfect Fit Guide and aren't sure why you would even need to know the answer to this question, I encourage you to get the guide. It's absolutely free and sure to answer a lot of your garment fitting questions. Just click on the image below and I'll deliver it straight to your inbox!

I hope you find the information in this week's video useful. Let me know what you think by leaving your comments below! If you want to see the comments on the live video you can see them here  Live with Alexandra

All My Best,
Alexandra

We’re back on track this week! Last week we did a little side step and I showed you some throw back photos from my trip to Shanghai a few years back. If you’d like to see some photos of the sewing factory I visited and get a behind the scenes look, watch this!

This week’s video is all about what is referred to in the industry as “the order of operations”. The order of operations is essentially a set of garment assembly instructions. It is the step-by-step process of putting a specific garment together in the most efficient way possible.

In the fashion industry these sewing instructions aren’t written out in detail like they are in the home sewing industry. If they are written down at all they will look like a short bullet list of tasks, similar to how you might write a to do list.

Sewing factories divide the garment assembly process into bulk tasks. The workers who are most skilled at that particular task can then complete it quickly and...

Last week we talked about seam allowances and how varying them can help you get a professional finish on your handmade garments. If you missed that post, you can watch it here: How to Get a Professional Finish [Seam Allowances]

This week I was going to jump right into how the order of sewing steps can stream line your sewing, but since last week’s video sparked quite a bit of interest about the fashion industry, I thought you might like to take an inside look at a factory sewing floor, so I’ve pulled out some photos from a trip to Shanghai that I did way back in 2005.

While in Shanghai, I met with our counterparts, who served as technical translators between the company I worked for and the factories who produced the garments. As a special treat they took us to visit one of the factories that produced our goods.

Watch the video to learn about garment production, get all the details of the trip and see some photos of the factory floor. 

If you enjoyed this...

Last week we talked about how to get a professional finish on your handmade garments and I introduced you to some fashion industry techniques that you can use at home to help you achieve a high-end ready to wear look.

This week we’re diving a little bit deeper and I’m going to show you how varying your seam allowances can elevate your sewing. 

If you’ve been sewing with commercial patterns for any length of time, you’ll know that the seam allowances are generally a standard 5/8” (1.5 cm) on every pattern piece. This seam allowance definitely has its advantages and can even be a saving grace in many cases. It allows you some leeway for making fitting changes after a garment is cut, is suitable for a wide range of fabrics, and can accommodate several different kinds of seam finishes. This is smart considering pattern companies have very little to do with the type of fabric and seam finishes a sewist might choose to use on their project.

But this seam...

Welcome to the first video tutorial of 2019!

First of all, thank you for your time and attention to the all the tutorials I created in 2018. It is your insights, comments and questions that keep me motivated to continue, and I truly do hope that what I share is of value to you.

Today I'm answering this customer question:

“Can I actually create a garment that doesn’t look homemade?”

I’m here to tell you that the answer is a resounding YES but achieving this result has very little to do with your level of sewing experience.

You might have the impression that the more experience you have with sewing, the more professional your hand made garments will appear. This is not necessarily the case. While years of sewing experience can be extremely helpful, it is not the only ingredient to achieving a garment that doesn’t look homemade.

There are a three other very important ingredients that will take your final garment to that professional level. The first...

As 2019 begins to shine, I've been thinking about where to best put my time and energy in the New Year. While you may be thinking about the sewing projects you'd like to tackle, I'm planning how I'm going to serve you better this year. Looking back on 2018, there are things that I definitely want to continue to do, things that I'll be happy to give up and things that I planned to do that never got done. With these in mind, here's what I've got in store for you in 2019.

THINGS I'LL CONTINUE TO DO:

Free Video Tutorials
The video tutorials are my place to experiment with ideas, share my knowledge and connect with you. Your comments and feedback on the videos help me understand what you're struggling with and what you'd like to learn more about. They spark ideas for workshops and classes and new ways to help you make garments that you're proud to wear.

For 2019, you can expect the free...