This week I waned to share something that might get you thinking about darts a little differently.

In the image above you'll see two different kinds of darts represented: visible and invisible darts. I know you are familiar with visible darts, they are easily found and identified, but invisible darts can be a little bit more elusive because they are hidden inside the seams throughout the garment and give the garment shape just like the visible darts you're so familiar with.

In the example I've shown above you'll see that there is one invisible dart at the back yoke seam line which provides shaping for the back just as a shoulder dart would. Another invisible dart is located at the shoulder seam line which provides the shape you need over the shoulder.

When you consider shaping in the seams as darts, you can use the information to help you understand how to adjust your pattern to fit you. I invite you to take a closer look at your sewing patterns before you sew to discover all...

Last week we talked about bust adjustments on a t-shirt pattern, this week I'd like to address how to handle back contour shaping. Age and posture can take a toll on the body and sometimes can result in more rounded shoulders and back. In order to achieve a good and comfortable fit in your garments you'll likely need to make a pattern adjustment to accommodate this body shape so today we'll cover the upper-back and mid-back contour shape adjustments.

Watch the video now to see how it's done.

If you'd like to learn about stretch fabric pattern making, I invite you to look into my online course The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice. You'll learn how to draft a basic T-shirt using your own body measurements. I'll leave a link for you on this page.

If you're not interested in drafting your own T-Shirt I have a pattern you can use. It's called the Jenny Tee and you can find it at inhousepatterns.com. For more information about how the Jenny pattern fits take a look at this video: Fitting...

Last week I showed you how to determine the shoulder slope on a sewing pattern. If you missed it, you can watch it HERE.

This week you'll learn how to translate that information into your degree of shoulder slope using a long forgotten tool that I am pretty sure you'll find in your junk drawer or a family member's school supply kit.

Once you've determined your degree of shoulder slope you'll have all the information you need to transfer the information to any sewing pattern.

All My Best,
Alexandra

This week I've got a really quick video that I hope you’ll find truly helpful.

It answers a question from Kelly who wanted to know how to measure her shoulder slope. A quick google search will give you several options. You can trace your shoulder line onto a piece of paper taped to the wall or use an iPhone app to determine the degree of slant. I personally haven’t found these to be very accurate because you usually need a helper to work with you, so I rely on the sample fit assessment to tell me what the shoulder slope should be.

Once you have a sample a garment that fits your shoulder angle, you can record that information for future use. So today I’m going to show you how to measure the shoulder slope on a pattern so that you can use the information for future sewing sewing projects.

Once you watch the video and understand how to measure the shoulder slope on a pattern you can convert this information to degrees if needed by using a protractor. To fuel...

This week’s video is a response to a special request from Linda who recently under went a double mastectomy. Since she still wants to sew the vintage patterns she’s collected over the years, she’d like to know how to reduce or eliminate the bust dart on a pattern. I’m going to answer Linda’s query by sharing a tutorial that can reduce or eliminate the dart volume in a way that you’ve likely not seen before. 

Watch the video to learn how.

While the method I shared here resulted in a reduction or removal of the bust dart volume, it does not change the front waist and hip measurement like the regular small bust adjustment which makes it likely to work for people like Linda who have chosen not to wear a prosthesis after their surgery.  As with all adjustments, you may need to experiment to some degree to customize the pattern to your body.

If you enjoyed this video, you might be interesting in joining me in Fitting Essentials. Fitting...

We've added a new member to the In-House Patterns team! Watch the video to meet Molly and learn about the role she'll play in the future of In-House Patterns.

Here are Molly's details:

Height: 5'6" (167 cm)
Bust: 45" (114cm)
Cup Size C
Waist 38" (96.5cm)
Hip 48" (122 cm)
Shoulder Width 15 1/2" (39 cm)
Across Back 15" (38 cm)
Across Front 14" (35.5cm)
Bicep Girth 15" (38 cm)
CB Neck to Waist 15 3/4" (40 cm)
CB Waist to Hip 8 1/2" (21.5 cm)

Here are Maureen's Details:

Height: 5'8" (172 cm)
Bust: 36" (91.5cm)
Cup Size B
Waist 28 1/2" (72 cm)
Hip 38 1/2" (98 cm)
Shoulder Width 15" (38 cm)
Across Back 14" (35.5 cm)
Across Front 13.5" (34 cm)
Bicep Girth 11" (28 cm)
CB Neck to Waist 16 1/4" (41 cm)
CB Waist to Hip 8" (20 cm)

For the current In-House Patterns Sizing Chart CLICK HERE. Shop for patterns while you're there! The sizing chart for the new sizing category will be coming soon.

If you want to learn more about Molly's on-boarding process check out her highlights on Instagram HERE. I'll continue to...

You probably already know that pattern companies usually supply a few finished pattern measurements on the outside of the pattern envelope. These usually include hem widths and total back length. These serve to give you some idea of the basic dimensions of the finished garment but are rarely very helpful in determining how the pattern will fit you.

You might have more luck by looking inside the pattern envelope. Often you’ll find the finished pattern measurements for the bust, waist and hip girth on the sewing pattern pieces themselves. These are the measurements that will actually help you understand how the pattern will fit. 

Let me share just a few things you can  learn if you are willing to spend a little bit more time with the pattern pieces.

We already know finished pattern measurements for the bust waist and hip can often be found on the pattern pieces but I want you to be a little bit cautious here because I have found that often the printed measurements are...

It’s a well known fact that most pattern companies provide very limited sizing information on their patterns.  Sewers are asked to choose their pattern size using three main body measurements; bust, waist and hip girth. The assumption is that all of your measurements will land within one size and the choice would be easy. For some of us it is, but what are we to do if our measurements land on two or three size possibilities?

Today I’m going to give you three tips that will help you make a definitive pattern size choice.

#1 Take Your Body Measurements Before You Start a New Sewing Project

The first tip I have for you is to take your body measurements before you start a new sewing project. My body measurements fluctuate by about 1” in circumference as I gain and lose weight throughout the year, so I take my body measurements each time I start a new sewing project. This way I am always aware of my current measurements. I personally use The Pattern...

Like the majority of sewing enthusiasts, you probably first learned to sew by following a commercial sewing pattern. Along with the step-by-step guidance offered in the pattern’s sewing instructions and a few video tutorials, you probably found it pretty easy to get acceptable results no matter how complicated the garment. You simply executed each step one at a time until the garment was complete. As your sewing skills progressed you likely began to imagine a unique and beautiful handmade wardrobe filling your closet, but you hit the snag that most of us do; getting a good fit became a struggle.

Fitting is generally thought to be a trial and error process and the one thing that impedes sewing progress. There seems to be no road map, no sequence of logical steps to follow and no hope of ever getting a pattern to fit. Today’s video just might help  you change that.

In this week’s video I’m going to share the step by step process I use on all my sewing...

Today is big reveal day!

We’ve been diligently working on a little pattern making project that I’ve named Ava. While quite simple in nature, this little project is packed with pattern making tips, tricks and techniques that will help you to understand how to use your personal bodice block. I hope you’ve been working on your own version along with me. If you’re just joining in, not to worry, I’ve got the links to all the previous pattern making tutorials right here:

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 1

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 2

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 3

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 4

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 5

If you don’t have a basic bodice block yet, take a look at my online course Designed to Fit: The Bodice Block. It will walk you through all the steps to create a made to measure bodice block that fits.

If you just want to give pattern making...