For me, September always marks a new start. While we are all still clearly trying to find solid ground during this challenging year, a new season always feels like something good might be just around the corner. If you feel that way too, I hope what I share today will be welcome news.

If you've followed any of my fitting tutorials, downloaded The Perfect Fit Guide or taken any of my online classes, you already know how helpful the horizontal and vertical balance lines can be in assessing fit. While I deeply believe this method works, I know it has been difficult for you to put this into action because these markings are not provided on most commercial sewing patterns, so today I am announcing a new In-House Patterns sewing pattern that includes some extra special features.

This is Lila. This pattern is available in a new size range and packaged in a new digital mini-class format.  When you purchase this pattern you get access to an In-House Patterns Studio account where you'll...

Early this year I shared a 6 part Pattern Fundamentals video series that walked you through the process of creating a pattern design using your personal basic block pattern.

Did you participate in the Ava design project?

If you did, you may have come upon a bit of a stumbling block that I'd like to help you step over, so this week  I'm adding a Part 7 and answering a question that's come up quite a bit lately.

"What do I do when the bust dart volume isn't enough to create three neckline darts?"

If you stumbled at this stage, I have the answer for you today. Watch the video to learn exactly what to do.

If you missed the series and want to catch up use the links below to follow along!

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part I

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 2

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 3

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 4

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 5

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project:...

Last week we talked about invisible darts on bodice patterns. If you happened to miss that video tutorial, take a moment to go back and watch, I think you’ll find it an interesting perspective on the fitting elements that many sewing patterns contain.

This week, I’m expanding on the topic to share the invisible dart locations you’ll find on pant patterns.

Take a moment and watch the video, you may not have considered the fitting elements that I share inside. 

Get your pant scaled block patterns HERE.

Enjoy!

All My Best,
Alexandra

If you’re on my email list, you’ll know that last week I sent out a quick tip on visible and invisible darts. It spiked quite a bit of interest, so I decided to expand on the topic a bit with a supporting video tutorial so today I’m going to share some of the most common invisible dart locations and show you how you can discover their location on any pattern.

Let me show you how to set up your patterns in a way that will reveal even more examples of invisible darts.

Watch the video now for all the details.

Next week, I’ll share the invisible dart locations on pant patterns. Understanding their location might just help you get a better fit on your next pair. To get you started, visit my pant fitting video series and download the scaled pant block pattern.

If I've piqued your interest in the Fitting Essentials online course, you can get all the details HERE. Enrolment only opens once per year so sign up to the waiting list to be sure you don't miss your...

This week I waned to share something that might get you thinking about darts a little differently.

In the image above you'll see two different kinds of darts represented: visible and invisible darts. I know you are familiar with visible darts, they are easily found and identified, but invisible darts can be a little bit more elusive because they are hidden inside the seams throughout the garment and give the garment shape just like the visible darts you're so familiar with.

In the example I've shown above you'll see that there is one invisible dart at the back yoke seam line which provides shaping for the back just as a shoulder dart would. Another invisible dart is located at the shoulder seam line which provides the shape you need over the shoulder.

When you consider shaping in the seams as darts, you can use the information to help you understand how to adjust your pattern to fit you. I invite you to take a closer look at your sewing patterns before you sew to discover all...

Last week we talked about bust adjustments on a t-shirt pattern, this week I'd like to address how to handle back contour shaping. Age and posture can take a toll on the body and sometimes can result in more rounded shoulders and back. In order to achieve a good and comfortable fit in your garments you'll likely need to make a pattern adjustment to accommodate this body shape so today we'll cover the upper-back and mid-back contour shape adjustments.

Watch the video now to see how it's done.

If you'd like to learn about stretch fabric pattern making, I invite you to look into my online course The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice. You'll learn how to draft a basic T-shirt using your own body measurements. I'll leave a link for you on this page.

If you're not interested in drafting your own T-Shirt I have a pattern you can use. It's called the Jenny Tee and you can find it at inhousepatterns.com. For more information about how the Jenny pattern fits take a look at this video: Fitting...

Last week I showed you how to determine the shoulder slope on a sewing pattern. If you missed it, you can watch it HERE.

This week you'll learn how to translate that information into your degree of shoulder slope using a long forgotten tool that I am pretty sure you'll find in your junk drawer or a family member's school supply kit.

Once you've determined your degree of shoulder slope you'll have all the information you need to transfer the information to any sewing pattern.

All My Best,
Alexandra

This week I've got a really quick video that I hope you’ll find truly helpful.

It answers a question from Kelly who wanted to know how to measure her shoulder slope. A quick google search will give you several options. You can trace your shoulder line onto a piece of paper taped to the wall or use an iPhone app to determine the degree of slant. I personally haven’t found these to be very accurate because you usually need a helper to work with you, so I rely on the sample fit assessment to tell me what the shoulder slope should be.

Once you have a sample a garment that fits your shoulder angle, you can record that information for future use. So today I’m going to show you how to measure the shoulder slope on a pattern so that you can use the information for future sewing sewing projects.

Once you watch the video and understand how to measure the shoulder slope on a pattern you can convert this information to degrees if needed by using a protractor. To fuel...

This week’s video is a response to a special request from Linda who recently under went a double mastectomy. Since she still wants to sew the vintage patterns she’s collected over the years, she’d like to know how to reduce or eliminate the bust dart on a pattern. I’m going to answer Linda’s query by sharing a tutorial that can reduce or eliminate the dart volume in a way that you’ve likely not seen before. 

Watch the video to learn how.

While the method I shared here resulted in a reduction or removal of the bust dart volume, it does not change the front waist and hip measurement like the regular small bust adjustment which makes it likely to work for people like Linda who have chosen not to wear a prosthesis after their surgery.  As with all adjustments, you may need to experiment to some degree to customize the pattern to your body.

If you enjoyed this video, you might be interesting in joining me in Fitting Essentials. Fitting...

We've added a new member to the In-House Patterns team! Watch the video to meet Molly and learn about the role she'll play in the future of In-House Patterns.

Here are Molly's details:

Height: 5'6" (167 cm)
Bust: 45" (114cm)
Cup Size C
Waist 38" (96.5cm)
Hip 48" (122 cm)
Shoulder Width 15 1/2" (39 cm)
Across Back 15" (38 cm)
Across Front 14" (35.5cm)
Bicep Girth 15" (38 cm)
CB Neck to Waist 15 3/4" (40 cm)
CB Waist to Hip 8 1/2" (21.5 cm)

Here are Maureen's Details:

Height: 5'8" (172 cm)
Bust: 36" (91.5cm)
Cup Size B
Waist 28 1/2" (72 cm)
Hip 38 1/2" (98 cm)
Shoulder Width 15" (38 cm)
Across Back 14" (35.5 cm)
Across Front 13.5" (34 cm)
Bicep Girth 11" (28 cm)
CB Neck to Waist 16 1/4" (41 cm)
CB Waist to Hip 8" (20 cm)

For the current In-House Patterns Sizing Chart CLICK HERE. Shop for patterns while you're there! The sizing chart for the new sizing category will be coming soon.

If you want to learn more about Molly's on-boarding process check out her highlights on Instagram HERE. I'll continue to...