In Fitting Fashion

Designed to Fit: The Custom Stretch Knit Skirt Block

 

Introducing the recently updated online course Designed to Fit:  The Custom Stretch Knit Skirt Block!

In this course you will learn the foundations of stretch knit pattern making by developing a dartless stretch knit skirt based on your personal body measurements and the stretch ratio of your chosen fabric. Through this exercise you will gain the foundational knowledge and skills needed to successfully design uniquely you stretch knit pattern designs.

Add this online course to your In-House Patterns Studio course library today and get step by step guidance on developing a dartless stretch knit skirt block. You’ll take your body measurements, determine the stretch ratio of your chosen fabric and draft a custom size pattern using that information. I’ll show you how to balance your draft, adjust it for a tilted waist as well as how to check and true your pattern to perfection. You’ll also work through refining the fit of your block, making it the...

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A Guide to Your Year of Fitting Success

Fitting is generally thought to be a trial-and-error process. There is seemingly no roadmap, no sequence of logical steps to follow and no hope of ever getting a pattern to fit you. I’d like to challenge that thought because there is in fact a sequence of logical steps to follow that will lead to a pattern that fits.

If you want to know what that step by step process is and you have declared 2022 your year of fitting success, here are three things you need to do to get started:

  1. Download the Perfect Fit Guide (and read it). It contains the step by step process that will put you on the path to fitting success.
    You’ll find the link in my bio.
     
  2.  Take your body measurements.
    You'll find the Pattern Measurement Worksheet inside the guide with directions on what and how to measure.
    Watch this tutorial: How to Measure Yourself

  3.  Choose Your Pattern Size. Choose a simple top or dress pattern to practice on. You may already know your...
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Make this Your Year of Fitting Success

Happy New Year!

I am not one to make New Year's resolutions but I do believe in setting an intention for the year and developing a plan to follow through. (semantics perhaps?)

This year my intention is FOCUS.

In spite of this ongoing pandemic and the uncertainty it brings, I intend to move into 2022 with a dedicated focus on your fitting success. With this in mind I've filled my calendar with online courses and fitting tutorials to help you achieve that goal so If you've been struggling with fitting sewing patterns and want to commit to learning how to fit this year, I'd like you to consider declaring 2022 your year of fitting success.

 If you're with me on this you already know the declaration isn't enough, you must back intention with action and I've got just the thing that will get you started. I'll share exactly what that is next week so keep your eye on your...

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Three Secrets to Achieving Fitting Success

 

Today I am sharing an edited version of a workshop I did a few years ago that shared some really good advice on how to prepare yourself for fitting.

Everything I share in this presentation is perfect for you if you’re new to garment sewing and are beginning to struggle with fitting, or if you’ve come back from a long break from sewing for yourself and have discovered that patterns just don’t fit like they used to. If you’re an experienced sewer and an accomplished fitter, you’ll likely find these secrets, not so secret, but a good overview of the basics.

The video is just over 20 minutes long so settle in with a glass or orange juice, a cup of tea or a glass of wine. The pace is perfect for a little break from whatever you were doing and might spark and solution to a fitting issue you may be facing.

For more information on the process of fitting, pull out The Perfect Fit Guide. If you don't have it on hand, you can sign up to...

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Alexandra's Favourite Tools for Pattern Making and Fitting

 
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Alexandra's Favourite Books for Pattern Making and Fitting

 

I often get asked about the contents of my bookshelf, so I thought today you might be interested to see which books I use the most and would recommend that you add to your library.

Watch the video to get a glimpse inside my 5 favourite pattern making and fitting books. I share what I love about each book as well as some of the areas where the content is (just a little) lacking.

Here are my 5 favourite pattern making and fitting books:

Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich

 Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Armstrong

 Dress Fitting: Basic Principles and Practice by Natalie Bray

 The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen

 Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration by Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband, Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Put one on your wishlist or send one to a sewing friend, I have no doubt you'll make good use of these books.

I hope you...

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Love to Sew: Episode 197 Fitting Advice with Alexandra Morgan

I was incredibly excited and grateful to be invited to be a guest on the Love to Sew podcast with Caroline and Helen. 

They were both extremely gracious hosts and guided our conversation with ease and expertise in spite of my nervousness. Somehow we managed to cover topics that ranged from where I grew up to how I transitioned from the fashion industry to the home sewing world and still remarkably had time to offer fitting guidance to six lucky listeners who submitted their fitting photos for the show.

If you submitted a photo, you might be one of the lucky six, but even if you weren't chosen I have no doubt you'll learn a lot from this episode. We discussed fitting issues for 3 tops and 3 pants so you'll get a good overview of some of the more difficult to diagnose issues and some very unconventional ways of solving them.


LISTEN NOW


The purpose of this post is not only to draw your attention to the episode but also to provide you with some additional resources...

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What I Did this Summer and Other Stories

Did you ever have to write a "What I Did this Summer" essay for school?

I always found summing up two months of summer activities challenging and I often felt I had to make those activities a little more exciting than they may have been, but I did enjoy hearing about my classmate's adventures.

Since I'm popping in after a summer absence, I thought you might like to get a glimpse of what I've been up to in the hope that you'll find my discoveries helpful and activities interesting.

A LITTLE SEWING...

I did manage to get in a little sewing last month and made a cozy Merino Wool Cowl Neck sweater. I purchased this cosy fabric from Riverside Textiles. Try as I might to wear less black, this was the only color available in this fabric at the time of my purchase, but I can't say I was disappointed.  I know this one will be in constant rotation as the Canadian West Coast weather cools.

I created the pattern from my Custom Stretch Knit Bodice block by referencing...

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The Armhole Sleeve Connection

 

Oh those sleeves!

If you've been struggling with fitting sleeves you are in exactly the right place. Today is the day you'll get the guidance and insight you need to make those sleeves fit. In this video you're going to discover what a good fitting armhole looks like and how each part of the sleeve relates to the armhole it is set to.

Before we can even consider the sleeve we must first consider the armhole the sleeve will be set to. For the purpose of this video, I'll be talking specifically about a standard set in sleeve for woven garments and using the Kayla sewing pattern from my Fitting Essentials online course as an example.

A good armhole for a standard set-in sleeve is dependent on getting a lot of things right on the bodice. The shoulder slope, the armhole depth, the across back, the across front and the armhole width all must be correct before you can begin to assess sleeve fit.

Watch the video now to take a look at what a good armhole might look like on your pattern and...

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Three Ways to Determine Your Cup Size

 

What's your cup size? 

I'm sure this isn't a question you get often but the answer is really important if you want to achieve a good fit on the garments you create. Keep watching to discover three ways to determine your cup size and why one method might work better for you than the others.

Cup Size Theory

Before we dive into the three ways to determine your cup size, let's talk about the theory behind cup sizing. The theory goes like this: Each cup size represents a change in breast size or bust projection of 1.25 cm or ½".

In our little sewing world this means that the front bodice width and length must increase or decrease to accommodate the various cup sizes. If your cup size doesn't match that of the sewing pattern you will need to make a bust adjustment. In order to make that adjustment,  you'll need to know your personal cup size. I'd like to share three methods to determine your cup size and provide some insight as to why one method may work better than...

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