In Fitting Fashion

How to Solve Knit Fitting Issues-Part I


Remember last week when we talked about how to diagnose knit fitting issues? Well this week we’re going to solve them! We’re going to continue on with Robin’s sample and take the fitting assessment to the next step.

Before we continue on with Robin’s fit assessment though, I want to remind you about a free download that I’ve created that will help you with assessing the fit of your own projects. It’s called The Good Fit Checklist. It contains information on how to recognize a good fit, how to diagnose fitting issues and the order you need to work to solve them. Sign up to receive your copy; it’s absolutely free.

Now watch the video for the solutions to the diagnosis we made on Robin's sample last week.

Did you notice that Robin hasn’t added her horizontal and vertical balance lines on her sample?  If she had, it would be so much easier to assess the amount of change required and the location of the change. This is a fitting...

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How to Diagnose Knit Fitting Issues


Welcome to video #2 of the Fitting Knits video series!

Last week you got an inside peak at my online course The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice Block and I showed you how to determine the stretch ratio of your fabric which is an important first step in getting the right fit on your knit garments. This week I’m going to share a few insights on how to diagnose your knit fitting issues.

For this video, I’ve enlisted the help of Robin, who wrote to me in hope of getting some guidance on fitting her knit garment project.

Robin writes:

 Hi Alexandra,

I’ve been having trouble with all the tops I am making and can’t seem to figure out how to resolve them. I have spent hours on Youtube, the internet, books etc. I make my own patterns and have even used a commercial pattern, not to mention that every RTW shirt in my closet has the same fitting problems.

I can’t figure out how to get rid of the diagonal draglines from the back and bottom of the armhole/sleeve. I...

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How to Determine Fabric Stretch Ratio


This week I’ve got a special treat for you. This month we’re covering the topic of fitting knits so I thought you might enjoy a glimpse inside my online course The Custom Stretch Kit Bodice Block. This course teaches you how to draft a custom size t-shirt to your personal body measurements using the stretch ratio of your chosen fabric. It’s loaded with valuable information about knits and custom knit pattern making and I can’t resist sharing a piece of the information I know you can all use.

The stretch ratio of a knit is extremely important when it comes to getting a successful fit. In order to eliminate the darts on a knit garment, you must use negative ease and the stretch ratio of the fabric to force the fabric around your body contours. If you’re not using the fabrics ability to stretch, you will be left with draglines and folds that you must become comfortable with or manage in some other way. Over the next few weeks we’re going cover these...

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How to Find the Bust, Waist and Hip Position on Your Sewing Pattern


Last week I got a great question from Kimberly in the In-House Patterns Studio private Facebook group.

She asked:

"How do you find the bust, waist and hip position on a sewing pattern that doesn't have any of these markings?"

If you have a copy of The Perfect Fit Guide you probably had this question too so I decided to do a live recording of my answer and post it here for everyone to benefit.

If you don't have your copy of The Perfect Fit Guide and aren't sure why you would even need to know the answer to this question, I encourage you to get the guide. It's absolutely free and sure to answer a lot of your garment fitting questions. Just click on the image below and I'll deliver it straight to your inbox!

I hope you find the information in this week's video useful. Let me know what you think by leaving your comments below! If you want to see the comments on the live video you can see them here  Live with Alexandra

All My Best,

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Fitting Sleeves: How to Diagnose Sleeve Fitting Issues


Over the past couple of weeks we've been diving deep into sleeve fitting. In the first video of the series we talked about the armhole shape and size and determined how to assess if it will be a good foundation for your sleeve. In the second video of the series we talked about the sleeve itself and determined how to assess if it will fit into the bodice armhole correctly.

This week I want to demonstrate how to asses and trouble shoot the fit of the sleeve in a "real life" sample so I'm sending a big THANK YOU to Jill who has allowed me to use her photos in this video. I have no doubt that this example will help someone else struggling with fitting sleeves.

While this example is a knit sleeve, it represents the same issues that are found commonly in woven sleeves as well. Watch the video for a demonstration on how to assess the sample for fit and direction on how to adjust the pattern to follow.

Here are the links to the resources mentioned in this week's video:


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Fitting Sleeves: The Armhole/Sleeve Connection


Last week we talked about the bodice armhole and how to assess if will be a good foundation for the sleeve. If you missed that video you can watch it HERE.

This week is all about the sleeve and how you can determine if it's a good match for the armhole. Watch the video to get some inside information about bicep ease, sleeve cap ease and optimal cap height for a good fitting set in sleeve.

I'll also show you how to walk your sleeve to the armhole so that you can determine the sleeve cap ease and see the relationship between the armhole and sleeve seam lines. For more on walking the sleeve, watch this video: 

Quick Tips for Patterns That Fit: Take a Walk

After you've watched the video, share your thoughts in the comments below.

Next week you'll see a "real life" example of a sleeve that's not quite right and I'll share my assessment of the issues and suggest some pattern adjustments that will help to improve the fit. I hope you'll tune in.

All My Best,

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Fitting Sleeves: The Bodice Armhole


Fitting sleeves can sometimes be even more challenging than fitting pants.

Most of us have experienced strange draglines, odd twisting and general discomfort on the sleeves of at least one of our sewing projects. Finding the cause and the solution can be frustrating so today I’d like to begin a video series all about sleeves.

I’m starting this series with one of the most important elements of a good fitting sleeve: the bodice armhole. I’m starting here because it is impossible to achieve a good fitting sleeve if the armhole it is sitting on doesn’t fit. The armhole must be the correct size and shape for your body before you can even begin assessing the sleeve. Watch the video to dive a bit deeper into what a good fitting armhole looks like and how to assess if it’s a good base for your sleeve.

After you watch the video, I'd love to know if you had any insights or ah ha moments; I hope you'll share them in the comments!

If you’re...

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How to Measure Yourself


If you've been struggling with getting the accurate body measurements you need to choose the correct size and fit your sewing patterns, this video is for you! Today I'm showing you exactly how I measure myself each time I begin a new sewing project.

I'll be using The Pattern Measurement Worksheet to demonstrate the process so if you don't yet have your copy, download it here:

Once you've got your pattern measurement worksheet in hand, follow along with the video to record your own personal body measurements.

If you enjoyed this video, I'd love to hear it! Share your thoughts in the comments below!

All My Best,

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Fitting Pants: The Crotch Curve


The most challenging thing about fitting pants is getting the patterns crotch curve to reflect the shape of the body it is being fit to. An ill-fitting crotch curve results in draglines, wrinkles and excess fabric that can make pants uncomfortable and unflattering. The crotch curve needs to accommodate the length, width and depth of the body as well as align to the curves within those parameters. This area of the human body is as individual as your DNA so it’s no wonder we have trouble figuring out what to do when we’re not satisfied with the fit of our pants.

 This week we’re on to video #4 of the Fitting Pants video series. If you’ve missed the previous videos, I encourage you to go back and watch them. They contain important information that will help you understand the concepts I present today.

Fitting Pants: How to Get Started

Fitting Pants: The Tummy Adjustment

Fitting Pants: The Seat Adjustment

 When fitting the crotch curve of pants what you...

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Fitting Pants: The Seat Adjustment


Today’s video is a continuation of the Fitting Pants video series. This is the third video in the series so if you missed the first two, follow the links below to catch up.

Fitting Pants: How to Get Started

Fitting Pants: The Tummy Adjustment

This week we’re going to look a little closer at the rear view of our pants and discuss the full and flat seat fitting issues. These are what I like to call companion fit issues because the solutions to each of these are essentially the exact opposite of each other. While one will require and increase in the pattern dimensions, the other will require a decrease, but both use the same alteration lines in the pattern adjustment technique.

Before we jump into solving this week’s issue, once again, there are a few things you need to confirm before you start the fitting process. Make sure you have your balance lines marked on your garment, be sure you’ve chosen the correct pattern size, and use the fitting order as I’ve...

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