Fitting Knits: How to Make a Bust Adjustment on a T-Shirt Pattern

fitting knits Jun 23, 2020
 

This week we're continuing with our fitting knits series so today I want to share some information you can use regarding bust adjustments. You'll find several bust adjustment tutorials on my website already but in this video I'll share some tips on how to translate that information to knit garments.

In order to create a good fit over the bust in any garment, the front pattern piece must be longer and wider than the back pattern piece. This extra length and width allows the garments balance lines  to hang level as the fabric travels over the projection of the bust. The resulting excess length at the side seam is then taken up as dart volume so that the front and back side seams can be made the same length and stitched together. 

In most knit patterns, the bust dart is eliminated due to the ability of the fabric to stretch and mold over the bust projection but if you are larger than a B cup or you prefer looser fitting styles, this isn't sufficient to achieve a good fit, so it is likely that you'll need to make a bust adjustment. 

Making a bust adjustment in a knit garment is much the same as it is for a woven garment but since we usually want to avoid creating darts in a knit garment we have to deal with the resulting dart volume in a different way.

Watch the video now to get all the details.

If you're following along with the Jenny tee, you can use any of my bust adjustment tutorials to increase the cup size of the pattern, but you must recognize that standard bust adjustments add both width and length to the front pattern.

If you'd like to learn about stretch fabric pattern making, I invite you to look into my online course The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice. You'll learn how to draft a basic T-shirt using your own body measurements. I'll leave a link for you on this page.

Next week we'll chat about back contour shaping and how to manage rounded back fitting issues in knit garments. I hope you'll tune in.

All My Best,
Alexandra

PS
For more information on bust adjustments review these resources:

A New Take on the Full Bust Adjustment

Another New Take on the Full Bust Adjustment

How to Eliminate a Bust Dart

The Dart-less Bust Adjustment

The Kimono Tee Small Bust Adjustment

The Cowl Tee Small Bust Adjustment

The Cowl Tee Full Bust Adjustment

The Belle Blouse Small Bust Adjustment

The Belle Blouse Full Bust Adjustment

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