#17 Three Secrets to Achieving Fitting Success

If your sewing projects aren’t turning out the way you hoped—despite carefully following the pattern instructions—this is the way it is for most of us. Whether you’re getting back into sewing after a break or you’ve been working around fitting problems for years, there’s a good chance the issue isn’t your sewing skills.

It’s the pattern. More specifically, it’s the fact that patterns are designed for the company's standardized figure.

In this video, you’ll learn three essential, practical insights that will help you get better fitting results from your sewing patterns. These are the foundational concepts I teach in all my courses and cover in depth in the Perfect Fit Guide. Let’s dive in.

1. Patterns Must Include Fitting Elements That Match Your Body

Every sewing pattern starts with a basic block—a template based on a specific set of measurements and a particular body shape. When you work with a commercial pattern, you’re working with someone else’s interpretation of an “average” figure.

The fit of that pattern depends on key shaping components I call fitting elements: darts, seams, and their equivalents (pleats, gathers, flare, etc.). If these aren’t placed correctly or sized appropriately for your body, the result will never feel right.

Here’s what to watch for:

• Back shoulder dart: Controls upper back shaping. Missing or misplaced, it can lead to gaping at the neckline or diagonal wrinkles.

• Bust dart: Essential for shaping over the bust. When misaligned, expect pulling, gaping, or excess fabric.

• Waist darts: Dictate how the garment contours from bust to waist, and waist to hip. When off, you may see pooling or tightness around your midsection.

Even in patterns that appear dart-free, those shaping elements are still there—just hidden or left unstitched. Smart designers use dart equivalents like gathers, pleats, or seams to shape the garment subtly.

Pro tip: Before choosing a pattern, identify where the shaping occurs. If you can’t find any hint of a fitting element, fitting that design to your body may be more challenging than one that has.

 

2. Your Pattern’s Size Chart Tells You More Than You Think

Most sewists glance at the size chart, find the bust or hip that’s closest, and call it a day. But there’s much more information hidden in those numbers—if you know where to look.

Start with height. Many regular patterns are designed for a height of 5’5” to 5’6”. If you're significantly taller or shorter, you’ll need length adjustments somewhere in the body or sleeve—even before you consider width or shaping.

Then look at the bust vs. high bust. A 2-inch difference signals the pattern was drafted for a B cup. If your own difference is more or less than that, you’ll need to plan for a full or small bust adjustment—even if the bust circumference seems to match.

Next, examine the waist-to-hip ratio. Most size charts follow an hourglass figure standard (e.g., a 10-inch difference between waist and hip). If that’s not your body shape, prepare to adjust.

The key insight: The size chart shows you the body the pattern is designed for—not necessarily the one you have. Use it to plan the fitting adjustments you'll likely need if you use that pattern.

 

3. The Pattern Pieces Reveal How It Will Actually Fit

While the size chart is useful, the pattern itself holds the most critical fitting information.

Before you cut anything, measure the pattern at key points:

• Shoulder width

• Across back and front

• Bust, waist, and hip girths

• Bicep and sleeve length

Compare these to your own measurements—plus ease. Many patterns don’t clearly state how much ease is built in, and when they do, the numbers aren’t always reliable.

Why this matters: If the bust width is fine but the across-back is tight, you’ll likely feel restriction in your arms. If the sleeve is too narrow, it won’t matter how well the bodice fits—it will still feel uncomfortable.

Taking the time to analyze your pattern pieces allows you to solve fit issues before they show up in fabric.

A Quick Recap: Your 3 Keys to Better Fit

1. Choose patterns with clear fitting elements
   Darts and dart equivalents are essential for most of us. Understand where the shaping happens and whether it aligns with your body.

2. Analyze the size chart thoroughly
   Look at bust cup assumptions, height, and body proportions. These give you the clues you need to plan alterations.

3. Measure the pattern itself
   Compare it to your measurements (plus ease) to assess where you need to adjust before you cut.

Next Steps

If you’re tired of making endless samples and hoping for the best, these three strategies will help you move forward with more clarity and confidence.

To take your fitting knowledge even further, download the free Perfect Fit Guide. It walks you through the six essential steps to achieving the right fit—every time.

And if you’re ready to go deeper with a complete, professional fitting system, take a look at the Fitting Essentials course. You’ll learn how to diagnose, adjust, and refine your patterns with precision using a proven, step-by-step approach.

The more you understand about how patterns work, the more power you have to make them work for you.

All My Best,
Alexandra