The most challenging thing about fitting pants is getting the patterns crotch curve to reflect the shape of the body it is being fit to. An ill-fitting crotch curve results in draglines, wrinkles and excess fabric that can make pants uncomfortable and unflattering. The crotch curve needs to accommodate the length, width and depth of the body as well as align to the curves within those parameters. This area of the human body is as individual as your DNA so it’s no wonder we have trouble figuring out what to do when we’re not satisfied with the fit of our pants.
This week we’re on to video #4 of the Fitting Pants video series. If you’ve missed the previous videos, I encourage you to go back and watch them. They contain important information that will help you understand the concepts I present today.
When fitting the crotch curve of pants what you are actually doing is designing negative space. This is what I think makes fitting pants so difficult. This negative space consists of the crotch length, the crotch depth and the curves that transition between the two. This negative space is what your body occupies.
The crotch length is indicated by the space needed to accommodate the figure from the waist to the base of the torso or the crotch level.
The crotch depth is indicated by the space needed to accommodate the figure from the center front to the center back.
Within these guidelines we have the shape of the crotch curve, which must follow the shape of the body accurately in order for a pant to fit well.
Watch the video now to get a full demonstration on how to assess and solve for fitting issues in these three areas of the pant. If you'd like to follow along with the pattern alteration techniques download your free copy of the scaled pant block patterns by clicking the image below!
All My Best,