#65 What Wrinkles Won't Reveal

Gaping Front Placket, Swayback, or Neckline Gape? Here's the Real Cause

I recently shared some fitting guidance for a sewing series with Larissa at A Mindful Clothier, and I knew exactly what questions would arise. A gaping front placket. Pooling at the lower back. A back neckline that gapes. And yes, there is always a question about pants.

If you've tried sizing up, pinning out fabric, or pinching out a dart, pause and consider: what if the problem isn't where the wrinkle is? One of the answers might surprise you.

Larissa is creating a series on sewing couture-inspired shirts and blouses, and she invited me to share my fitting process for a series she’s doing on shirt sewing.

Before we get into the questions, I want you to remember that a wrinkle is a symptom of a fitting issue, not the cause.

When you try on a garment that doesn't fit, your eye will go straight to the most offending wrinkle. You've most likely been taught to focus on it. But that wrinkle is simply telling you that the fitting grid is being pulled out of alignment, or left unsupported. And in most cases the wrinkle doesn't actually appear where the fitting issue originates.

The fitting grid is made up of vertical and horizontal balance lines. In its simplest form, vertical balance lines are placed at CF and CB. Horizontal balance lines are placed at the bust, waist, and hip line. When those lines hang parallel and perpendicular to the floor, the garment is in balance and wrinkles disappear.

If you don't have a copy of The Perfect Fit Guide yet, you can get it HERE.

As with all rules, there are exceptions that you'll discover as your fitting skills grow. But this concept is the foundation of fitting success. So for each of the questions I answer, I want you to look past the wrinkle and ask one thing. What is happening to the fitting grid?

Watch the video if you want the answer to these four questions:

• Why does a shirt gape at the bust?
• Why does fabric pool at my back waist?
• How do you fix a gaping back neckline?
• Does balance line fitting work for pants?

If you'd like to watch my segment of A Mindful Clothier series, you'll find it HERE. 

While you're there, take some time to explore Larissa's channel. Her couture-inspired techniques and poetic sewing stories are a joy to watch.

Chat with you soon,
Alexandra