IN FITTING FASHION

VIDEO TUTORIALS THAT GET YOU TO A BETTER FIT FASTER

How to Get a Professional Finish [Seam Allowances]

 

Last week we talked about how to get a professional finish on your handmade garments and I introduced you to some fashion industry techniques that you can use at home to help you achieve a high-end ready to wear look.

This week we’re diving a little bit deeper and I’m going to show you how varying your seam allowances can elevate your sewing. 

If you’ve been sewing with commercial patterns for any length of time, you’ll know that the seam allowances are generally a standard 5/8” (1.5 cm) on every pattern piece. This seam allowance definitely has its advantages and can even be a saving grace in many cases. It allows you some leeway for making fitting changes after a garment is cut, is suitable for a wide range of fabrics, and can accommodate several different kinds of seam finishes. This is smart considering pattern companies have very little to do with the type of fabric and seam finishes a sewist might choose to use on their project.

But this seam...

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Five Essential Pattern Making Skills for Garment Makers

pattern fundamentals Aug 28, 2018
 

If you had a chance to watch last week’s video, you’ll know that this week I’m going to cover some of the most essential pattern making skills you’ll need when working with existing commercial patterns or designing your own patterns. The skills I highlight today will, without a doubt, give you better results with fitting your garment and simplify your sewing. Follow through with these tips and you’ll finally achieve the professional results you’re looking for. Watch the video to get all the details.

Resources Mentioned in this Video:

#1 Taking Pattern Measurements

The Perfect Fit Guide a free downloadable fitting guide that walks you through a seven step fitting process.

The First Fitting Session: How to Prepare: This video features a demonstration of how to measure a sewing pattern to prepare for the fitting process. (Free downloadable resources included!)

Four Things that will Get You to a Better Fit Faster: This video cover the...

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What to Do with a Block Pattern

pattern fundamentals Aug 21, 2018
 

Recently this question popped into my inbox: Once I have a block, what do I do with it? I get this question a lot so I thought it would be good to address it so everyone can get the benefit of my answer.

Before I do, here’s my definition of what a block is:  A block, sometimes referred to as a sloper, is the foundation of all other patterns. A block can come in the form of a bodice block, a skirt block, or a pant block for either woven or knit fabrics, but in essence, it is the most basic form of a pattern drafted to a specific set of body measurements and fit to a specific body shape. In my definition, a block includes wearing ease, which is the minimum amount of ease needed to accommodate regular day-to-day activities like breathing, reaching, sitting, and walking. This wearing easy can be anywhere between 2” and 4” or 5 to 10 cm and depends entirely on what you feel comfortable in.

Once the basic bodice block is drafted and refined to fit, it’s...

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How to Get Started with Pattern Making

pattern fundamentals Jul 17, 2018
 

In this week's video I wanted to answer a question that I got from a member of the In-House Patterns Studio Facebook Group.

She asked:  How do you get started with pattern making?

She wanted to know where to go to get the best pattern making instruction and basically how to begin designing her own patterns that fit.

I believe this is a growing desire among garment sewing enthusiasts. As we gain and master more advanced sewing skills we become intellectually and creatively ready to level up. We become tired of constantly making the same fitting adjustments to commercial patterns and compromising on styles that are close but not exactly what we were looking for. I believe this question or desire is a natural step in growing your creative abilities.

If you're interested in this topic, watch this video to hear my answer.

After you've finished watching you can explore the links to the FREE resources I mentioned in the video:

FREE Scaled Block Patterns (get your...

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Pattern Fundamentals: Strapless Contour Darts

pattern fundamentals Jul 10, 2018
 

This is video number four of this pattern fundamentals series all about the bust circle and contour darts. If you've missed the first three, you'll find them here:

Video 1: The Bust Circle Defined

Video 2: Neckline Contour Darts

Video 3: Armhole Contour Darts

This week, we're looking at the contour darts used to create strapless styling. Once again, I'm going to show you where they go, what size they usually are and how to use them to create a strapless, princess seamed, torso length bodice.

 

PS
If you don't have a basic bodice block that fits you, I can help you create one. Learn how here.

All My Best,
Alexandra

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Pattern Fundamentals: Armhole Contour Darts

pattern fundamentals Jul 03, 2018
 

This is video number three of this pattern fundamentals series all about the bust circle and contour darts. If you've missed the first two, back track a little and watch them here:

Video 1: The Bust Circle Defined

Video 2: Neckline Contour Darts

This week, we're looking at the contour darts used to eliminate gaping armholes. Once again, I'm going to show you where they go, what size they usually are and how to use them. 

I've recommended a couple of other videos in this mini lesson; these links will get you there is a snap! I hope you enjoy!

Two Essential Skills for Pattern Manipulation

Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

PS
If you don't have a basic bodice block that fits you, I can help you create one. Learn how here.

All My Best,
Alexandra

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Pattern Fundamentals: Neckline Contour Darts

pattern fundamentals Jun 26, 2018
 

Today we're using the bust circle that we defined last week to map out the contour or gape darts for the neckline area. If you missed that video, you'll need to watch it to understand how this works.

Pattern Fundamentals: The Bust Circle Defined

In this video you'll find out where to place the contour darts, how large they usually are and how to use them on a lowered and surplus necklines.

Next week you can look forward to a new video in this series where I'll show you how define the contour darts for the armhole so that you can eliminate any gaping in that area as you start designing cut out armhole shapes.

All My Best,
Alexandra

PS
Curious about how to get started with pattern making? You can view the all the pattern fundamental videos right here for free.  To get started on your personal basic block set, start here.

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Pattern Fundamentals: The Bust Circle Defined

pattern fundamentals Jun 19, 2018
 

In the last couple of weeks we’ve been talking about fitting necklines. As you’ve seen in the previous videos, there are definitely some special considerations when fitting your pattern to this area of the body.

Posture plays an important role in the placement of the neck opening as I demonstrated in the forward neck video and body contours or shape will also impact the way a neckline fits as I showed in the video about neck balance.

This week I wanted to dive even deeper into how the contours of the body affect the fit of the neckline as well as the armhole and introduce you to something called the bust circle.

In this video I'll explain what I mean by body contours and show you how to determine the size of the bust circle and how to draw it on your basic pattern.  All this in preparation for mapping contour or gape darts that will solve issues with gaping necklines and armholes.

Enjoy!

All My Best Alexandra

PS If you are interested in developing...

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PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: How to Pattern the Trumpet Sleeve

pattern fundamentals May 30, 2017

In this final video of the Pattern Fundamentals series, we're going to use the basic sleeve block to design the pattern of one of the most popular sleeve styles this year.

If you've missed the previous lessons in the series, I encourage you to watch them.  They are loaded with essential information you'll need for pattern manipulation.

Just click the links below to watch:

PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: Two Essential Skills for Successful Pattern Manipulation

PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: How to True Darts and Manage Dart Volume

PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS:  Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS:  How to Create and Balance a Flared Skirt

Now let's design the trumpet sleeve pattern. Watch the video to find out how!

As I mentioned in the video, get your FREE Scaled Block Patterns to practice your pattern work. Click the image below to get started!

Click the image to  see the Pinterest Board.

 If you've enjoyed this series on pattern making and...

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PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: How to Create and Balance a Flared Skirt

pattern fundamentals May 23, 2017

Here we go with video #4 of the Pattern Fundamentals series!

In the last three videos we've practiced lots of dart manipulations.  Each video building your pattern making skills and hopefully giving you the confidence you need to make pattern adjustments for fit and style.  I guarantee that you'll find something new and inspiring in each one of the previous videos so if you missed any of the lessons,  just click the links below to watch.

PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: Two Essential Skills for Successful Pattern Manipulation

PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: How to True Darts and Manage Dart Volume

PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS:  Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

This week we’re going to take everything we’ve learned and apply it to the basic skirt block. I’ll show you how to manipulate waist darts to create flare, how to balance the flare so that it hangs evenly all around the hemline, and talk a little bit about grain lines so you can understand...

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