In Fitting Fashion

Fitting Pants: How to Find the Balance Lines on a Pant Pattern

 

If you’re on my email list you already know that this week I’ll be showing you how to find the balance lines on the In-House Patterns Ellen pants. If you’d like to follow along with your own version of the Ellen pant pattern you can find the pattern HERE. If you’re working with another pant pattern you’ll get some insight on how to find the balance lines on that pattern too.

In the video I share details on finding the balance lines on the size 8 Ellen sewing pattern by In-House Patterns. If you're using another size use the information in the chart below to guide you in placing the Hip, High HIp and Calf balance lines on the size you're working with. Follow the video lesson for the method and the process of finding all the other balance lines.

 In-House Patterns  

Ellen Pant

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

Knee to Hip

15 ½"  

15 "  

15 ¾"  

15 "  

...

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Solving Back Contour Issues: How to Move a Back Yoke Seam

 

If you caught last weeks video tutorial you’ll know we began a discussion about back contour shaping on a pattern with a back yoke. In that video I shared a method of removing the yoke seam so that you could better understand how to make a standard rounded back adjustment. This week I wanted to talk about the best position for a yoke seam line and how to customize it for your body.

The back yoke is a great styling choice when you have a rounded back because it allows you to shape the back by creating an invisible dart in the yoke seam. This invisible dart, hidden in the seam, has the ability to give you a more refined fit but like a dart the styling will work best if the yoke seam is addressing the most prominent area of the back. If the yoke seam is too high or too low, you may find that you are not achieving the fit you hoped for.

The most prominent area of the back spinal curve usually occur between 2 1/2” to 5” below the base of neck. (That’s about 6 to...

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Solving Back Contour Issues: How to Eliminate a Back Yoke Seam

 

You might be quite familiar with making adjustments to a pattern to accommodate a more rounded back than what the pattern has been designed for. On a basic pattern with a shoulder dart, the method is well documented and I’ve even created a video tutorial on this as well, but what do you do when the style has a back yoke?

Join me today to learn how to eliminate a back yoke seam to better understand how to alter the pattern for more prominent back contour shaping.

Watch the video now to see how back contour shaping can be incorporated into the back yoke seam as an invisible dart and how to remove the yoke seam and rotate the invisible dart to the shoulder seam so you can easily make a standard rounded back adjustment.

Not sure how to make a standard rounded back adjustment? This video is for you:

The Rounded Back Adjustment

The Lila sewing pattern I shared with you in this video is a Fitting Essentials sewing pattern. When you purchase this pattern you get access...

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Magical Match

I couldn't resist sharing this lovely article written by Joyce Jones for her local American Sewing Guild chapter newsletter. I was incredibly humbled by the kind words she shared about her experience with my courses but even above that I love the sentiment of her words in regard to the incredible impact that an instructor can have on one's ability to learn and excel in any subject.

Have a read, I hope you enjoy it as much as I did...

 

Magical Match

written by Joyce Jones for the
Northern Virginia Chapter of the American Sewing Guild

If you have a minute for quiet reflection, conjure an image of your very best teacher. Not the one who made you laugh, liked you best, or never assigned homework. Dig a little deeper and visualize the teacher who made things click. You know the one I mean. The one who made you feel capable, curious to know more. If you’ve pulled up a face and a name, and perhaps even a smile, you’ve experienced a Magical...

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Announcing Something New

 

For me, September always marks a new start. While we are all still clearly trying to find solid ground during this challenging year, a new season always feels like something good might be just around the corner. If you feel that way too, I hope what I share today will be welcome news.

If you've followed any of my fitting tutorials, downloaded The Perfect Fit Guide or taken any of my online classes, you already know how helpful the horizontal and vertical balance lines can be in assessing fit. While I deeply believe this method works, I know it has been difficult for you to put this into action because these markings are not provided on most commercial sewing patterns, so today I am announcing a new In-House Patterns sewing pattern that includes some extra special features.

This is Lila. This pattern is available in a new size range and packaged in a new digital mini-class format.  When you purchase this pattern you get access to an In-House Patterns Studio account where you'll...

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A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 7

 

Early this year I shared a 6 part Pattern Fundamentals video series that walked you through the process of creating a pattern design using your personal basic block pattern.

Did you participate in the Ava design project?

If you did, you may have come upon a bit of a stumbling block that I'd like to help you step over, so this week  I'm adding a Part 7 and answering a question that's come up quite a bit lately.

"What do I do when the bust dart volume isn't enough to create three neckline darts?"

If you stumbled at this stage, I have the answer for you today. Watch the video to learn exactly what to do.

If you missed the series and want to catch up use the links below to follow along!

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part I

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 2

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 3

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 4

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project: Ava Part 5

A Pattern Fundamentals Design Project:...

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How to Find Invisible Darts on Pants

 

Last week we talked about invisible darts on bodice patterns. If you happened to miss that video tutorial, take a moment to go back and watch, I think you’ll find it an interesting perspective on the fitting elements that many sewing patterns contain.

This week, I’m expanding on the topic to share the invisible dart locations you’ll find on pant patterns.

Take a moment and watch the video, you may not have considered the fitting elements that I share inside. 

Get your pant scaled block patterns HERE.

Enjoy!

All My Best,
Alexandra

 

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How to Find Invisible Darts

 

If you’re on my email list, you’ll know that last week I sent out a quick tip on visible and invisible darts. It spiked quite a bit of interest, so I decided to expand on the topic a bit with a supporting video tutorial so today I’m going to share some of the most common invisible dart locations and show you how you can discover their location on any pattern.

Let me show you how to set up your patterns in a way that will reveal even more examples of invisible darts.

Watch the video now for all the details.

Next week, I’ll share the invisible dart locations on pant patterns. Understanding their location might just help you get a better fit on your next pair. To get you started, visit my pant fitting video series and download the scaled pant block pattern.

If I've piqued your interest in the Fitting Essentials online course, you can get all the details HERE. Enrolment only opens once per year so sign up to the waiting list to be sure you don't miss your...

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Quick Tips: Visible and Invisible Darts

This week I waned to share something that might get you thinking about darts a little differently.

In the image above you'll see two different kinds of darts represented: visible and invisible darts. I know you are familiar with visible darts, they are easily found and identified, but invisible darts can be a little bit more elusive because they are hidden inside the seams throughout the garment and give the garment shape just like the visible darts you're so familiar with.

In the example I've shown above you'll see that there is one invisible dart at the back yoke seam line which provides shaping for the back just as a shoulder dart would. Another invisible dart is located at the shoulder seam line which provides the shape you need over the shoulder.

When you consider shaping in the seams as darts, you can use the information to help you understand how to adjust your pattern to fit you. I invite you to take a closer look at your sewing patterns before you sew to discover all...

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Fitting Knits: How to Make a Back Contour Adjustment on a T-Shirt Pattern

 

Last week we talked about bust adjustments on a t-shirt pattern, this week I'd like to address how to handle back contour shaping. Age and posture can take a toll on the body and sometimes can result in more rounded shoulders and back. In order to achieve a good and comfortable fit in your garments you'll likely need to make a pattern adjustment to accommodate this body shape so today we'll cover the upper-back and mid-back contour shape adjustments.

Watch the video now to see how it's done.

If you'd like to learn about stretch fabric pattern making, I invite you to look into my online course The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice. You'll learn how to draft a basic T-shirt using your own body measurements. I'll leave a link for you on this page.

If you're not interested in drafting your own T-Shirt I have a pattern you can use. It's called the Jenny Tee and you can find it at inhousepatterns.com. For more information about how the Jenny pattern fits take a look at this video: Fitting...

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